bubba;250499 wrote:
Wes either thought u were dumb or werent helping any...

I did have a legitamate question to thrash as to what MS set-up he had... cuz doesnt he have bimmers... and i'd know someone that might be intrested depending on....

I simply stated that megasquirt is a tuning software for people who have oddball car such as miata's, corollas and other who can't chip their ecus or run a piggy back(or who want a better tuning system than a piggy back)

IOW, it was a standard generic MS2 build, with relay board and pretty much all the other bling you can order from DIYautotune.com. I simply never got around to doing the install on my old Audi before I sold it.

If someone wanted a path-of-least-resistance build on an older BMW one of the BMW-specific setups would be better. Peter Florence is a master at running 80s BMWs on Megasquirt and has a built lots of them for people. There are MS BMW builds now that re-use most of the factory wiring and actually fit inside the original Motronic DME case inside the glovebox.

Bp-08;249631 wrote:
anyone here fimilar with tuning megasquirt. thats what i plan on running and it will be my first time attempting to tune lol. should be fun. i might need some help haha

How about we eliminate all of the nonsense and delete everyones post except for the one that actually answers the original question. Even though it wasn't technically a question since it didn't end with a ?.

And now here is the answer.

Yes, there are people here fimilar with tuning megasquirt.

I even typed it so the thread starter could understand.

Your welcome Bp-08

Joel;250298 wrote:
why the fuck were my posts deleted in this thread.... WTF?

Wes either thought u were dumb or werent helping any...

I did have a legitamate question to thrash as to what MS set-up he had... cuz doesnt he have bimmers... and i'd know someone that might be intrested depending on....

Goodnbuzzd;250097 wrote:
well, weather you use the plug-n-play or use the non plug-n-play, if you've never used megasquirt or ms/ms extra software, try and find someone familiar with it to give you a helping hand with it, once you've used and gotten familiar with it you will love it, nothing like being able to tune your car from your laptop. as for my last post on the distributorless ign, i must have missed the fact you were planning on using the plug-n-play for a certain app, wasn't trying to be a smart ass, i was assuming you were going to build/have built a generic megasquirt, so i appoligize there.

thats alright man. the guy building my megasquirt is going to help me out. only problem is it will be over the computer because he is from canada lol. he builds his own plug and play megasquirts for escorts. and dont worry i didnt feel the smart ass vibe lol. but like you said it would be nice to have someone that can hands on help me at first. thats why i posted this to see if there was anyone local. i know i could get it down on my own. but like you say it would definatly be nice to have someone who knows what their doing there lol.

thrash;249896 wrote:
baro correction is only relevant if you'll be changing altitutdes (or if you drive into a hurricane or something) during the same "boot" of the MS ECU. Otherwise, it reads the base pressure upon bootup and that's what it goes with.

Last time I had looked, multi-sensor baro correction in MS was quite primitive.

I think I'd skip fooling with it for your first build, to be honest. I'd also stick with the normal map sensor.

A distributorless ignition isn't necessarily a problem with MS. On some builds you'd want to read the crank position via the hall sensor on the distributor, but a 60-2 wheel is a better place to read from anyway. For actually getting the spark to the right hole at the right time you've got a few options, espeically if you load the MS2-Extra software into the system.

I've got a built MS2 setup that I never got around to installing that is forsale, btw.

also thanks for the input. and thats alright im having someone make me mine that will practicly be plug and play. and yes on their website their baro correction did appear to be kind of ghetto lol

dynotune;249929 wrote:
i haven't looked @ms software in years, but 4 bar resolution sucks, plain and simple. street cars with 4 and 5 bars do not have proper idle properties and drivabilty ESPECIALLY if you have camshafts or low vacuum @ idle scenarios. Baro correction is generally not needed on street cars, but it is ALWAYS in OEM calibrations and there is reasons for that. Most of the stand alone systems are pretty gross in how they work compared to an OEM quality PMC/ software. Yes, anything you can get will work, but there is many disadvantages to stand-alones in alot of cases.

thanks for the imput. i will just go with the 3 bar being that i plan on running more than 20psi.

Goodnbuzzd;249895 wrote:
cant use with distributorless ignition???? hmm you can use it with just about anything, with the right parts. building it yourself is part of the fun.

ok he was talking about the miata plug and play megasquirt. yes i bet i could use it but there are some things different. like the miata has distributorless ignition. yes i could switch to distriburtorless igniton but i dont really need to or want to spend the extra money. where the plug n play for the miata is about the same price of the one im getting made for me.

bubba;249990 wrote:
Arent there ones that have been put together to they a plug and play for certain cars...

Yes they are. Lets leave this thread to the guys that actually KNOW ABOUT THE STUFF. If you dont know, or have a legitimate question pertaining to the thread topic, then stay off the thread.

Joel;249793 wrote:
Do you plan on building the MS ECU yourself? Or does the Miata 1.8 lt plug and play work? MAP or Ron will be tuning my car. I would like to have Ron do it, but I just don't know if he'll touch MS or not.

Im sure ron will do it with a little convincing. I have something to show you and I promise you will never go to MAP.

I really think on your first build you will have enough to deal with to not have to worry about a barometer setup. Unless you need a new map, i would start with the stock map sensor, and then upgrade when you need to. Saves some money and the start in case you have problems, and possibly saves some headaches if you have any problems with it.

Last time I had looked, multi-sensor baro correction in MS was quite primitive.

I think I'd skip fooling with it for your first build, to be honest. I'd also stick with the normal map sensor.

A distributorless ignition isn't necessarily a problem with MS. On some builds you'd want to read the crank position via the hall sensor on the distributor, but a 60-2 wheel is a better place to read from anyway. For actually getting the spark to the right hole at the right time you've got a few options, espeically if you load the MS2-Extra software into the system.

I've got a built MS2 setup that I never got around to installing that is forsale, btw.