Spun rod bearins is a known problem..but why does that make em junk? There are more then four cars out there running 400+hp on stock bottom ends. I think I might be one of them come summer. 800hp seems like a lot...but not when your car weighs two tons. Dave runs nines with a shade under 900hp as well. Poorly geared trannies? Maybe....but so is a DSM tranny. Unless people steal galant first gears because they think it sounds cool.

[QUOTE=Wizard]And as for the oil pump and waterpump needing replaced at 60k......I can't think of any other cars that this is necc. to maintain proper operation. Timing belt for a 4g maybe. But my car has 132k miles with original oil pump, water pump, etc. And everything is just peachy on it and she makes great power. I know of many others with even more miles still on original equipment without failure and they are abused motors.[QUOTE=Wizard]

Replacing the oil pump at 60k miles as a precautionary measure might sound like a pain in the ass..but its not that hard. A v8 needs a distributor, rotor, cap ect about as often, at least in my experience. It comes with the territory and I while it might not be fun, I dont mind working on my car. Besides, 60k miles wont roll around for me until im thirty.

[QUOTE=Wizard]And from what I heard, Len Monseratt and Wrighttouch Racing tried to make this motor a serious contender in Pro-Classes and it did nothing but kill the bottom-end consistantly. Neither car has made full passes down the strip and have both been down since 2002. Not saying that times may change with a good builder/tuner. But as of yet, they have not been a very good motor when modified.[QUOTE=Wizard]

Progess has been nonexistant for these cars from day one. Aftermarket doesnt exist and support from owners is limited to a handfull when it comes to engineering and pushing the platform forward. Anyway, how many different motors are pro-stock material.... I would say what, a handfull of teams use different motors/setups and are still competitive? Drag racing at that level leaves little to innovation. They use whats proven and stick to it IMO. The amount of time and money you would need to make a 6G a contender is something few teams have or. If you ask me, nobody cares or will care for it because they are not cheap. They arnt cheap to own, build, or maintain. But I love em and if prostock wont have em then o well. The 1000+ members of 3SI along with myself will take allthe extra ones we can get.
[QUOTE=Wizard]Long live the 4G (Since 1972 BTW).[QUOTE=Wizard]

Long live every car and everyone who enjoys the sport...except cavaliers. They can go to hell.

edit/ that got a bit whorish...oopes.

And as for the oil pump and waterpump needing replaced at 60k......I can't think of any other cars that this is necc. to maintain proper operation. Timing belt for a 4g maybe. But my car has 132k miles with original oil pump, water pump, etc. And everything is just peachy on it and she makes great power. I know of many others with even more miles still on original equipment without failure and they are abused motors.

And from what I heard, Len Monseratt and Wrighttouch Racing tried to make this motor a serious contender in Pro-Classes and it did nothing but kill the bottom-end consistantly. Neither car has made full passes down the strip and have both been down since 2002. Not saying that times may change with a good builder/tuner. But as of yet, they have not been a very good motor when modified.

Long live the 4G (Since 1972 BTW).

Wiz

Wizard wrote:
While I agree that the 6g series motors are junk to build (notably the 6g72 and it's amazingly high oil pump failures), I was just providing options.

Wiz

I disagree....if changed at regularly scheduled intervals(as directed by the owners manual) it does not fail as often as you make it sound. I think the water pump is more of an issue then the oil pump and, as the oil pump, should be replaced every 60k miles.

I also dont exactly think there is much sense in "building" the motor..since they have been proven to handle 400+hp. I will be honest and agree that they like to spin bearings if treated poorly, but so do lots of stock motors with 400hp. I think they would have a bit more respect if there were more then three fast 6G powered cars out there, because they are not hard to make power with. Im not trying to start a fight or whore, I drive one and thought I would stick up for myself because I dont think they are junk.

adog wrote:
If the engine bay is really cramped, you could always do something insane like put the turbo in the rear, but there's no way that will ever work well.
It has been done, and isn't much different than strapping a turbo on the manifold aside from a very small power loss (compaired to turbo on manifold) if done properly.

http://ddynopower.com/pics/engine3.jpg
http://ddynopower.com/pics/engine1.jpg
http://ddynopower.com/pics/engine2.jpg

But as for the 'broken college student', I must have missed that....sorry. I agree that you should look for a beater to drive if you plan on modding your car. Rule of thumb for any car....especially DSMs.

While I agree that the 6g series motors are junk to build (notably the 6g72 and it's amazingly high oil pump failures), I was just providing options.

Wiz

That being said, you should be able to run a 50-75 shot atleast safely, I know the 420a's can take atleast that and you have a slightly bigger motor. Might want to check out fuel pumps while your at it.

Jim

thanks for all the input guys...keep it coming.

In other words, a 3g turbo kit (or home brewed) works just fine even though the electronics are different. An AFC will work on just about any car as long as you hook it up right and the MAF (or MAP) are compatible with the pre-programmed settings.

As for the tranny, It's an Automatic. Usually they are a bit robust and will usually do fine with the increased stress. But to be safe, consider an aftermarket tranny cooler, shift kit and maybe beefing up your tranny mounts. That should aid in making it last longer. You could always consider swapping to a 5-spd (3g's and 2k+ Stratus R/T, etc). Read more about this on ASOG. There's even a guy that has completed a 4G63 AWD swap into his Avenger. Running low 12s if I remember right. There are also guys with 3.0L's swapped in as well as 2.8L stroker (over the 2.5L) and 3.3L and even 3.5L motors with 5-spds are now getting installed.

Wiz

american_made85 wrote:
i was told that nitrous would be the best bang for my buck and being a broke college student, that would be my best bet.

Nitrous is the best bang for the buck... but speed costs money. Not only to go fast in the first place... but to fix things that break when you go fast. I don't care what people say... things do and will break. The transmission? Yup.. could break and could be quite spendy to repair. The engine? Yup, could have issues there throwing nitrous at it as well... and will be spendy to repair as well if something decides to go wrong.
If this is your only car and you absolutely can't be without it... I wouldn't start throwing nitrous or even a turbo at it then. Reason being? You said you are a broke college student... and that usually means you can't afford to spend the money on a new transmission or engine if one/both were to fail.
If you have another car you can drive if this one goes all to hell... then go for it... but just be aware that things do and will break... and usually with nitrous... when they do... it's expensive.
...and yes, I do run nitrous on my car and have for about the past 5 years.
Good luck though... speed is fun.