<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" version="2.0"><channel><title><![CDATA[Machine Shop to work on H-series...]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto">Apparently, M&amp;J doesn't work on H-series...I need a place that can clean it up and give it a hone...any advice on where else to go/look?</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/topic/6726/machine-shop-to-work-on-h-series...</link><generator>RSS for Node</generator><lastBuildDate>Thu, 28 May 2026 14:44:37 GMT</lastBuildDate><atom:link href="https://fargostreet.com/topic/6726.rss" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml"/><pubDate>Tue, 13 Jun 2006 20:36:22 GMT</pubDate><ttl>60</ttl><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Sat, 17 Jun 2006 14:14:34 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto">and Ur done with the first post net year!</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/105047</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/105047</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Joel]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Sat, 17 Jun 2006 14:14:34 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Sat, 17 Jun 2006 08:48:45 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto">I was 13 years old when I started reading that....</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/105038</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/105038</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Erik]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Sat, 17 Jun 2006 08:48:45 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Sat, 17 Jun 2006 05:46:30 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto">Riley says the laser structuring process is ideal for hard blocks or those with special surface coatings that make them difficult to finish with conventional honing techniques. "It’s a perfect application for high performance, diesel and aircraft engines," he  says.</p>
<p dir="auto">Remember To Clean The Bores<br />
As we wrap up this article on honing abrasives, one final point to remember is the importance of cleaning the bores after honing. Honing leaves a lot of metallic and abrasive debris in the bores – which must be removed before the engine is assembled. Washing and scrubbing with warm soapy water will remove most of the loose debris. Some engine builders follow up by wiping out the cylinders with automatic transmission fluid. The point is get the cylinders clean so there are no contaminants to damage the rings or to get into the oil.</p>
<p dir="auto">&lt;&lt;Side Bar&gt;&gt;</p>
<p dir="auto">WHY DIAMONDS ARE SO EXPENSIVE<br />
If you’ve balked at the high cost of diamond honing stones, here’s a brief explanation why they’re so expensive:</p>
<p dir="auto">Diamond is a special form of carbon that is formed naturally under extreme heat and pressure deep inside the earth. As such, it isn’t very plentiful or easy to find. Subsequently, man-made synthetic diamonds are mostly used for industrial abrasives.</p>
<p dir="auto">Scientists realized that if they could duplicate the heat and pressure that formed natural diamonds deep in the earth, they could transform ordinary graphite (another form of carbon) into diamond. They estimated it would require temperatures in excess of 6,300 degrees F and pressures of approximately one million pounds per square inch to make the transformation occur. But as the scientists discovered, it wasn’t so easy. Try as they might, they couldn’t get graphite to change its crystal structure and become diamond – until General Electric researchers discovered the secret in 1951.</p>
<p dir="auto">A catalyst was needed to make the change happen. The catalyst turned out to be a mixture of molten iron, nickel and cobalt. The various proportions of ingredients in the catalyst are still a closely guarded secret, so only a couple of companies in the entire world have the expertise to produce synthetic diamonds. In the U.S., synthetic diamonds are produced at GE’s plant in Worthington, Ohio. Several years ago, we were given a plant tour – but nobody except a trusted few are allowed to see inside the room where the diamonds are actually made.</p>
<p dir="auto">GE says they can create different types and sizes of synthetic diamond for various industrial purposes by varying the temperature, pressure and type of catalyst. Man-made diamonds typically have a yellowish tinge and are as small as grains of sand. Even so, they’re ideally suited for their intended use as an abrasive. They’re just as hard as natural diamonds and actually perform better because of their custom-tailored shapes and characteristics.</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/105028</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/105028</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[XJHEAD]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Sat, 17 Jun 2006 05:46:30 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Sat, 17 Jun 2006 05:45:51 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto">Equipment Requirements<br />
Something else to keep in mind about diamond is that it works best in power honing equipment that has been designed to take maximum advantage of diamond’s honing properties. There are a number of companies that make diamond honing heads for use with various honing machines: Rottler, K-Line, Kwik-Way, Peterson, Winona Van Norman, Sunnen and others. But because of the increased loads, diamond may overtax some older power honing machines and increase the risk of stripped gears. It may be better to buy a new honing machine that has more horsepower and rigidity to handle diamonds.</p>
<p dir="auto">"Most of our customers who hone with diamonds use a CK21 machine," says Sunnen’s Mera.</p>
<p dir="auto">As for portable honing equipment, conventional abrasives are the better choice for this type of application. Most of those we spoke with say diamonds require too much pressure for portable honing equipment.</p>
<p dir="auto">Another difference with diamond is the type of lubricant that’s required. A synthetic water-based lubricant is usually recommended instead of honing oil.</p>
<p dir="auto">K-Line’s van den Bergh says, "water-based lubricants are easier and cheaper to dispose of than oil-based lubricants because they can be evaporated down to reduce their bulk. On the other hand, they occasionally require make-up water and have to be monitored to prevent bacterial growth.</p>
<p dir="auto">"The type of lubricant you choose is very important because it can make quite a difference in honing performance. With conventional abrasives, you want a good quality honing oil. A lot of people run into honing problems because they’ve diluted their honing oil or tried to use something else like diesel oil or kerosene," says van den Bergh.</p>
<p dir="auto">Anthony Usher of Rottler Mfg. in Kent, WA, says the OEMs all use long-lasting superabrasives with metal bonded honing stones. But the equipment and controls they use are very expensive, which makes it difficult to bring the same technology into a typical aftermarket job shop.</p>
<p dir="auto">"About 12 years ago, we decided to change that. If new engines are originally honed with diamonds, why can’t we develop the same technology? So we set about developing honing equipment, controls and stones that would put the same technology into the hands of a job shop," says Usher.</p>
<p dir="auto">"Diamonds last a long, long time. Because the stones don’t wear away, you can control the size of the bore more accurately," Usher explains. "This allowed us to build an automatic control system that allows us to size bores exactly the same every time."</p>
<p dir="auto">Usher says for under $30,000, a job shop can buy a diamond honing machine that substantially reduces running costs and gives better results.</p>
<p dir="auto">"The HP6A power stroking automatic honing machine is our newest product. It runs with diamond abrasives and has a programmable load control for both rough honing and finish honing. When it is finishing the cylinder, it automatically reduces the load because some cylinders have very thin areas that may distort if the load isn’t changed. The HP6A has a base price of $23,900 and a fully equipped unit goes for $28,000 to $35,000."</p>
<p dir="auto">Plateau Finish Is Best<br />
Regardless of what type of honing equipment or abrasives are used to finish cylinder bores, more and more shops are finding a plateau finish provides the ultimate finish.</p>
<p dir="auto">A plateau finish is one that closely resembles a broken-in cylinder bore. When the bore is honed, the surface of the metal will have microscopic peaks and valleys. Peaks don’t provide much ring support, so as soon as the engine is started the piston rings start to scrub up and down and shear off the tallest peaks. As the engine continues to run, the peaks will be gradually shaved down until the cylinder bores are relatively smooth and flat (except for the valleys in the crosshatch that must be there to hold oil).</p>
<p dir="auto">The normal engine break-in procedure will eventually produce a plateau finish anyway. But until it does, the rings and cylinders will experience unnecessary wear and the engine will experience increased blowby, oil consumption and emissions until the rings have seated – which might take several hundred or even several thousand miles to complete.</p>
<p dir="auto">A better approach is to precondition the bore surface so the rings don’t have to "hone" the cylinders. A plateau finish will provide maximum compression right from the start, and eliminate most ring seating and sealing problems.</p>
<p dir="auto">One recipe for achieving a plateau finish is to bore or hone to within .003˝ of final size. Then finish to final dimensions with a #220 or #280 grit conventional abrasive and follow up with half a dozen strokes of a #600 grit stone, cork, or a flexible brush or nylon bristle plateau honing tool.</p>
<p dir="auto">If diamond stones are used, bore or rough hone to within .005˝ of final size. Then hone the cylinder to final dimensions with #325 to #500 grit diamonds, followed by six to eight strokes with a flexible brush or plateau honing tool. Many experts recommend leaving a little extra metal in the bore for final finishing if diamonds have been used to rough hone the cylinder. This is because rough honing with diamond leaves a very rough finish (over 100 RA depending on the grit of stone used).</p>
<p dir="auto">Honing Hard Materials<br />
In recent years, Nikasil coatings have provided a challenge for engine builders. Nikasil is a hard coating of nickel and silicon carbide about .0025˝ to .003˝ thick that is applied to cylinder bores to improve wear resistance. Invented by the German firm Mahle, Nikasil was originally developed for the Mercedes Wankel rotary engine. It has been used by BMW and Porsche in some of their engines, and is also used in many chain saw engines, some motorcycle and marine engines, and even many NASCAR Winston Cup engines.</p>
<p dir="auto">Goodson’s Jensen says PERs have had success honing Nikasil treated cylinders with diamond. But for smaller shops that have only portable honing equipment, you can’t exert enough pressure with diamond to hone Nikasil. The best advice here is to use #220 silicone carbine and just do a couple of strokes to deglaze the cylinder. If a cylinder has to be bored to oversize, cut it out with a boring bar and then hone in the usual manner to achieve the desired dimensions and finish.</p>
<p dir="auto">Ed Kiebler of Winona Van Norman in Wichita, KS, says new harder coatings on cylinder walls are forcing shops to change to diamond honing and to upgrade their equipment.</p>
<p dir="auto">"I see a lot of shops who are interested in diamond but who don’t fully realize what’s involved in the diamond honing process. Diamond takes a lot of pressure to cut. Some people use diamond on portable hones, but realistically you can’t get enough pressure to make the diamonds perform well. Having said that, I truly believe the new harder cylinder coating materials are going to force people to go to diamonds," says Kiebler.</p>
<p dir="auto">"The two-cycle stuff is all Nikasil.  Now the outboard engines are going to Nikasil, too. All the NASCAR Winston Cup shops are using Nikasil cylinders. If it’s good for NASCAR, it’s not going to be long before you start seeing it in OEM engines," Kiebler explains. "The time is coming when you’re going to have to use diamonds if you’re going to hone Nikasil cylinders."</p>
<p dir="auto">Kiebler says all most shops do is slightly roughen Nikasil cylinders. "You don’t really remove much material. The Winston Cup shops are running some of these motors five races before they redo the cylinders. The Nikasil coating really extends ring life and cuts down on ring wear."</p>
<p dir="auto">OEM TRENDS<br />
Dave Riley of Gehring L.P. in Farmington Hills, MI, a supplier of honing equipment to original equipment manufacturers, says almost all OEM internal combustion gasoline engines in North America today are being rough honed with diamond abrasives.</p>
<p dir="auto">Riley says the OEM focus is on using water soluble synthetic honing coolants, which means diamond abrasives because vitrified conventional abrasives require honing oil. The other industry trend he sees is that cylinder bores are being respecified to smoother finishes.</p>
<p dir="auto">"We’re talking 0.15 to 0.3 Ra finishes that are extremely smooth," says Riley. "They’re doing this to further reduce emissions. A lot of this is being driven by ring technology because rings can now survive in conditions that provide much less oil. However, in my opinion these new surface finish specifications are reaching the limits of technology."</p>
<p dir="auto">One of the things that the OEMs do to achieve high quality bore finishes is to use computer numerically controlled (CNC) honing machines. The cutting speeds of these machines are 50 to 75 percent faster than what was used 10 years ago. Faster cutting speeds allows the abrasives to cut smoother, and finer abrasives can be used for a smoother finish without sacrificing cycle time.</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/105026</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/105026</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[XJHEAD]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Sat, 17 Jun 2006 05:45:51 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Sat, 17 Jun 2006 05:42:34 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto">I didn't read it either</p>
<p dir="auto">The Smooth Science of Cylinder Honing<br />
By Larry Carley<br />
Technical Editor<br />
<a href="mailto:lcarley@babcox.com" rel="nofollow ugc">lcarley@babcox.com</a></p>
<p dir="auto">The basics of honing cylinder blocks hasn’t changed much in recent years, but what has changed are the type of abrasives being used by many engine builders.</p>
<p dir="auto">Silicon carbide and aluminum oxide honing stones of various grits have long been used in power honing machines and portable hones to finish cylinder bores. These types of abrasives are popular with engine builders because of their flexibility and low cost.</p>
<p dir="auto">But in recent years, a growing number of performance engine builders and custom engine builders have started using the same type of honing stones that production engine rebuilders and OEMs use: diamond abrasives.</p>
<p dir="auto">Conventional vitrified abrasives cut cleanly and do an excellent job of finishing cylinders – provided the right honing procedure is used to achieve a bore finish that meets OEM specs or the ring manufacturer’s requirements. But as the stones work the surface, they experience a lot of wear. In fact, the stones wear almost as much as the metal surface in the bore. Consequently, the honing machine operator has to constantly monitor the honing process and compensate for stone wear to keep the bores round and straight.</p>
<p dir="auto">Tim Mera of Sunnen Products Co. in St. Louis, MO, says conventional abrasives require a balance between cutting action and stone life. As a rule, harder metals require softer stones. A softer stone requires less honing pressure, produces less heat and causes less bore distortion. So the bond that’s used in conventional abrasives is designed to wear quickly and expose the abrasives for good cutting action.</p>
<p dir="auto">OEMs and production engine builders, on the other hand, don’t have the luxury of being able to baby-sit their honing equipment. Because of their higher production volumes, OEMs and PERs have to run their honing operations at higher speeds and with less operator supervision – which means diamond honing stones in most cases.</p>
<p dir="auto">Diamond has long been the material of choice for high speed, high volume honing applications because of its excellent wear characteristics. Stone life depends on the hardness of the abrasive, the hardness of the substrate that holds the abrasives, the hardness of the engine block, honing speed, load and the amount of metal that’s removed. Diamond is the hardest natural substance known, so it can hold a cutting edge much longer than a conventional abrasive. This means the bond that holds the diamonds can also be harder because it doesn’t have to wear away as quickly to expose fresh stones on the surface.</p>
<p dir="auto">Typically, a set of conventional vitrified honing stones might do up to 30 V8 blocks (240 to 260 cylinder bores) before they’re worn out and have to be replaced. A set of metal bond diamond honing stones, on the other hand, might do as many as 1500 V8 engine blocks (12,000 cylinder bores) before they have to be replaced. That’s a huge difference.</p>
<p dir="auto">However, diamonds require a sizable up-front investment. A set of stones can cost $600 to $700 – which is a big jump from $15 to $35 for a set of conventional honing stones. Consequently, many small custom engine builders say diamonds are too expensive for their purposes. They also say they can’t afford to buy several sets of diamond stones to cover all the different bore sizes they do.</p>
<p dir="auto">Even so, when the longer life of diamond stones is compared to that of conventional abrasives, diamonds may be more economical in the long run, even for a small shop (assuming an operator doesn’t overstroke a bore and break a stone!).</p>
<p dir="auto">Pim van den Bergh of K-Line Industries, Holland, MI, says he sees more and more shops switching to diamond for a variety of reasons. "We were one of the first to offer diamond for honing machines because we saw its many advantages." He says it gives very consistent results with minimal stone wear.</p>
<p dir="auto">Pros &amp; Cons Of Diamonds<br />
Because diamond is a harder material and wears more slowly than conventional abrasives, it cuts differently and requires more pressure. Diamond tends to plow through a metal surface rather than cut through it. This can generate heat and distortion in the cylinder bore if the wrong type of equipment, pressure settings or lubrication is used in the honing process. When done correctly, though, it can actually improve bore geometry by producing a rounder, straighter hole.</p>
<p dir="auto">Diamond is also good for rough honing cylinders to oversize because it can remove a lot of metal fast. But finishing requires at least a two-step procedure. Otherwise, the surface will be too rough.</p>
<p dir="auto">If you’re switching from conventional stones to diamond, you’ll generally have to use a higher grit to achieve the same Ra (roughness average) when finishing a cylinder. For example, if you have been using #220 grit conventional stones to finish cylinders for chrome rings, the equivalent diamond stones might be a #325 grit. If you have been using #280 grit conventional stones to hone for moly rings, the diamond equivalent might be #550 grit stones. The actual numbers will vary somewhat depending on the brand and grade of the stones.</p>
<p dir="auto">A cylinder bore must have a certain amount of cross hatch and valley depth to retain oil. However, it must also provide a relatively flat surface area to support the piston rings. Ring manufacturers typically specify a surface finish of at least 28 to 35 Ra for chrome rings, and 16 to 25 Ra for moly faced rings. These numbers can be easily obtained with diamond stones and brushing, say those who use this honing technique.</p>
<p dir="auto">One rebuilder we spoke to says he uses #325 grit diamond stones to end up with an Ra finish in the 20 to 25 range, which he feels is about right for moly rings. For some applications, though, he uses a #500 grit diamond to achieve a smoother finish in the 15 to 20 Ra range.</p>
<p dir="auto">Final Finish<br />
Something else that’s different when honing with diamond is what diamond does to the bore surface. Diamond tends to leave a lot of torn and folded metal on the surface, causing sort of a smeared appearance that doesn’t make a very good bore finish. Consequently, finishing the cylinder requires a second step to remove the damaged material.</p>
<p dir="auto">One way to get rid of this material is to plateau the surface with a fine grit conventional abrasive (like a #400 or #600 grit stone). All that’s needed are a few strokes to shave off the tops of the peaks. But, the most popular method for finishing the bores when using diamond stones is to sweep the bores with a flexible brush or a nylon bristle plateau-honing tool. Brushing helps remove the torn and folded debris while improving the overall surface finish.</p>
<p dir="auto">Chris Jensen of Goodson Tools &amp; Supplies in Winona, MN, says, "there’s a lot of confusion about how to finish cylinder bores when using diamond. Since diamond leaves a lot of folded and torn metal on the surface, the bores need to be brushed to remove the debris. Many different names are given to the same tool and process. Some call it a plateau hone, a soft hone, a whisker hone or an ultra-fine hone. But they all do the same thing: they sweep across the surface to remove jagged peaks, folded and torn material."</p>
<p dir="auto">Bristle style soft hones consist of mono-filament strands that are extrude-molded with a fine abrasive material embedded in the strands. The filaments can be mounted in different types of holders or brushes that can be used with portable or automatic honing equipment.</p>
<p dir="auto">When finishing the cylinders with a brush, only light pressure is required. The rpm of the brush should be similar to that which the cylinder was originally honed, and no more than 16 to 18 strokes should be applied (some say 8 to 10 strokes are about right). Too many strokes with a brush may produce too smooth a finish that doesn’t hold oil.</p>
<p dir="auto">Reversing the direction of rotation while brushing helps to remove the unwanted material on the surface. The end result should be a cylinder that provides immediate ring seal with little if any wear on the cylinder wall or rings when the engine is first started.</p>
<p dir="auto">Sunnen’s Mera says, "brushing the bore after honing makes a huge improvement in the surface finish, whether diamonds or conventional honing stones were used to hone the bore. You can get the overall Ra down to 8 to 12, with RPK (relative peak height) numbers in the 5 to 15 range, and RVK (relative valley depth) numbers in the 15 to 30 range."</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/105025</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/105025</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[XJHEAD]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Sat, 17 Jun 2006 05:42:34 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Sat, 17 Jun 2006 01:39:08 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto">its frm........<br />
spoolude under this fools account</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/105006</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/105006</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[Big-D]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Sat, 17 Jun 2006 01:39:08 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Fri, 16 Jun 2006 18:55:20 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<blockquote>
<p dir="auto">jdmprelude wrote:<br />
i bet the reason on why they cant or wont is because the h22 has a some weird shit on the cylinder walls that reinforces them i cnat remember what it is called but its the reason that you cant have forged pistons in the h22 without sleeveing it. the h23 does not have that coating thats why in a h22 you cant boost worth shit without sleeves</p>
</blockquote>
<p dir="auto">I know what its called but I will probably misspell it. It's called Nickacell or Nickelcell. Pretty much the same as on 2 stroke snowmobile engines.</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/104976</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/104976</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[weshole]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Fri, 16 Jun 2006 18:55:20 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Fri, 16 Jun 2006 18:48:11 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto">i bet the reason on why they cant or wont is because the h22 has a some weird shit on the cylinder walls that reinforces them i cnat remember what it is called but its the reason that you cant have forged pistons in the h22 without sleeveing it. the h23 does not have that coating thats why in a h22 you cant boost worth shit without sleeves</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/104975</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/104975</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[jdmprelude]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Fri, 16 Jun 2006 18:48:11 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Fri, 16 Jun 2006 00:42:34 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<blockquote>
<p dir="auto">weshole wrote:<br />
Well I have no problem with it but I do live in Fergus Falls and the machine shop is located here as well. His name is Scott Rachels, the name of his buisiness is Scotts Machine Shop and his Number is 218-736-1013. Give him a call. He will have no problem doing the work.</p>
</blockquote>
<p dir="auto">Thanks for the info...and for the record, I have no problems with M&amp;J. I have only had a crank redone there and I picked it up and paid for it the day it was done...that's it.</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/104853</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/104853</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[torbs]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Fri, 16 Jun 2006 00:42:34 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Wed, 14 Jun 2006 19:23:14 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<blockquote>
<p dir="auto">97slowgsx wrote:<br />
why thank you there young fella <img src="https://fargostreet.com/assets/plugins/nodebb-plugin-emoji/emoji/android/1f642.png?v=40430adaedb" class="not-responsive emoji emoji-android emoji--slightly_smiling_face" style="height:23px;width:auto;vertical-align:middle" title=":)" alt="🙂" /></p>
<p dir="auto">oh and btw...your point of view sucks:icon_bounce:</p>
</blockquote>
<p dir="auto">arnt you guys pretty much the same age...?</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/104755</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/104755</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[DelSlow]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Wed, 14 Jun 2006 19:23:14 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Wed, 14 Jun 2006 17:52:44 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<blockquote>
<p dir="auto">DrifterExtreme wrote:<br />
Well john from experience with you your an ass. and from my point of veiw you would mean that in a stupid way. so you got your answer that you were looking for so be done.... and wes i didn't mean to be a dick just that his question was ligit and you knocked him because he was torbs and i didn't think that was right...</p>
</blockquote>
<p dir="auto">why thank you there young fella <img src="https://fargostreet.com/assets/plugins/nodebb-plugin-emoji/emoji/android/1f642.png?v=40430adaedb" class="not-responsive emoji emoji-android emoji--slightly_smiling_face" style="height:23px;width:auto;vertical-align:middle" title=":)" alt="🙂" /></p>
<p dir="auto">oh and btw...your point of view sucks:icon_bounce:</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/104753</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/104753</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[RidinRails]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Wed, 14 Jun 2006 17:52:44 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Wed, 14 Jun 2006 15:43:32 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<blockquote>
<p dir="auto">DrifterExtreme wrote:<br />
So with this new knowledge you should let torbs know who this machinist is. because i go to M&amp;J and he wouldn't do it and torbs needs this done soon.</p>
</blockquote>
<p dir="auto">Well I have no problem with it but I do live in Fergus Falls and the machine shop is located here as well. His name is Scott Rachels, the name of his buisiness is Scotts Machine Shop and his Number is 218-736-1013. Give him a call. He will have no problem doing the work.</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/104747</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/104747</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[weshole]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Wed, 14 Jun 2006 15:43:32 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Wed, 14 Jun 2006 14:31:13 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto">So with this new knowledge you should let torbs know who this machinist is. because i go to M&amp;J and he wouldn't do it and torbs needs this done soon.</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/104740</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/104740</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[DrifterExtreme]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Wed, 14 Jun 2006 14:31:13 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Wed, 14 Jun 2006 14:16:01 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto">Ok so I did a little homework myself and called my machinist and asked him about this very thing. He said that he treats them the same as any snowmobile cylinder and he CAN hone them. Which leads me to believe that most machine shops can do the same work just choose not to. There is no magical equipment needed to do the work. I didn't say the werent special equipment just something you'd figure all machine shops would have.</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/104739</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/104739</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[weshole]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Wed, 14 Jun 2006 14:16:01 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Wed, 14 Jun 2006 13:22:15 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto">"Well john from experience with you your an ass."</p>
<p dir="auto">Grip :icon_blackeye:</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/104736</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/104736</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[DelSlow]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Wed, 14 Jun 2006 13:22:15 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Wed, 14 Jun 2006 09:19:38 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto">Well john from experience with you your an ass. and from my point of veiw you would mean that in a stupid way. so you got your answer that you were looking for so be done.... and wes i didn't mean to be a dick just that his question was ligit and you knocked him because he was torbs and i didn't think that was right...</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/104723</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/104723</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[DrifterExtreme]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Wed, 14 Jun 2006 09:19:38 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Wed, 14 Jun 2006 03:41:16 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto">Elite, i hear they are fast :S</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/104697</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/104697</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[bader3245]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Wed, 14 Jun 2006 03:41:16 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Tue, 13 Jun 2006 22:21:16 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<blockquote>
<p dir="auto">DrifterExtreme wrote:<br />
Well acually i called and talked to andy at M&amp;J and he told me that the sleeves are aluminum and can ONLY be honed by an expencive machine that is just to costly to own in fargo. I would appreiciate it if ppl like you two would research on the h22 before you go bashing on torbs for asking a simple question. So next time know what your talking about before posting stupid things.....</p>
</blockquote>
<p dir="auto">done crying??.....i wasnt bashing torbs...you obvisouly took what i said in the wrong way...when i say "why cant they its just like any other 4 cylinder" i was asking why.</p>
<p dir="auto">but obviously you took it wrong so get your panties out of a bunch.</p>
<p dir="auto">so....learn how to read before you start posting stupid things.:icon_compress:</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/104673</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/104673</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[RidinRails]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Tue, 13 Jun 2006 22:21:16 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Tue, 13 Jun 2006 21:41:17 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto">ahah</p>
<p dir="auto">try quality</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/104667</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/104667</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[nuckinfuts]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Tue, 13 Jun 2006 21:41:17 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Tue, 13 Jun 2006 21:36:39 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto">There ya go slappy. You happy now?</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/104666</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/104666</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[weshole]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Tue, 13 Jun 2006 21:36:39 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Tue, 13 Jun 2006 21:21:36 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto">Well acually i called and talked to andy at M&amp;J and he told me that the sleeves are aluminum and can ONLY be honed by an expencive machine that is just to costly to own in fargo. I would appreiciate it if ppl like you two would research on the h22 before you go bashing on torbs for asking a simple question. So next time know what your talking about before posting stupid things.....</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/104665</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/104665</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[DrifterExtreme]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Tue, 13 Jun 2006 21:21:36 GMT</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Reply to Machine Shop to work on H-series... on Tue, 13 Jun 2006 21:01:49 GMT]]></title><description><![CDATA[<p dir="auto">why wouldnt they...its just like any other 4 cylinder</p>
]]></description><link>https://fargostreet.com/post/104661</link><guid isPermaLink="true">https://fargostreet.com/post/104661</guid><dc:creator><![CDATA[RidinRails]]></dc:creator><pubDate>Tue, 13 Jun 2006 21:01:49 GMT</pubDate></item></channel></rss>