Install progress, pics
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Here's some progress of the audio install in my ef.
head unit: Eclipse CD1200. I got it for the high quality components, and I like the classic looks of it. I kind of wish I would have gotten another alpine with time correction but that would just open up a whole other can of worms (processors, eqs, etc)
front speakers and front door woes: Infinity reference 6.5 2 ways. These could use more power than the deck can provide, so I'll be looking for a 2 channel class a amp soon. meanwhile, i've always had good luck with infinity, and these work at a little more than 3 ohm so they get a little more juice out of a head unit at the cost of heat, which isn't an issue with the eclipse deck. I got these ones in hopes of getting more midbass with the +1 rolled surround however he sad fact seems to be that EF doors eat midbass like kobayashi eats hot dogs. These are by far the worst doors I've ever encountered. stock, they resonate terribly at 120hz and below, giving very little output. I applied 2 layers on the outside and 2 layers behind the speaker of cascade vb2 which I have had a roll of for some time. I covered all of the access holes in the door with aluminum gutter mesh before I covered with vb2 but I wasn't able to completely seal the doors due to the way the seatbelt reels are attached. With the sound deadening applied I did get more midbass output and less resonance but it is far from eliminated and i'm not going to put anymore weight on so further damping is out. I could really use that time correction, damn.
I can get some pics of the door installs up if anyone is interested.
rear fill: none
subwoofer: I'm running a RE Audio SE 12 in a 1 ft^3 sealed enclosure. Power is from a Planet Audio 1250.1d rated at 700x1 w @ 2 ohm. The power rating is accurate measured at the speaker terminals (I get about 37v which is a nut hair under 700w @ 2ohm). I fucked around with some ideas for enclosures and built 3 different ones, this one is the one I threw together last night and today
As you can see there is no way the magnet is going inside that enclosure so I'll be power mounting the sub (magnet facing out). It's not a particularly pretty sub, but it'll work.
It does fit under the little shelf so I can still put on the hatch cover if I had one. It is designed to make use of the availible airspace behind the tire well, which is a good .5ft^3. I could have made a fiberglass mold but I'm lazy.
It should be ready to go after I seal it up with fiberglass resin (it's pretty well sealed with liquid nails but just in case). Then the stealth panels will go on and it will get carpet. It will be well secured to the car, and the sub will be installed with tamperproof screws.
You can see in one pic that the amp is set into the spare tire well and you can see it thru the false floor. I threw that part together in like 2 hours so it's really ghetto. I'll redo that part whenever I feel like it, for now it works.
What does fargostreet think?
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baller, i still have a chub for this car
here a psht, there psht, everywhere a psht psht
PVC SQUAD MEMBER #2- 95 CIVIC EX- DD 320whp on a mustang dyno
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good start. You know, you can always get either an Audio Control DQL8 or a Zapco DSP6-SLII and have EQ/X-Over/Time Alignment/Etc... I happen to know a guy that sells both these brands....
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Too much of my time from age 17-23ish was spent slaving over EQTs in the blistering summer heat. Not going to open that can of worms again. I still cringe when I hear the word 'processor', regardless of context. I've seen some things man... some stuff. Thnx tho. If I do break down finally, I'll let you know. I might be crying. Don't judge me.
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Hooked everything up to test tonight....
HOLY SHIT.
It sounded like a jackhammer beating on all the panels and anything slightly loose in the hatch area.
Fucking violent.
Looks like I have to start securing shit back there with gusto if I want to hear anything but wild vibrating fury.
Im just saying, it hits really hard.
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This setup is toast. I cant use silicon like I was planning to secure it to the car. Going with a smaller enclosure of .75ft^3 for better midbass (killing the subsonics on the amp) in the spare tire well with a false floor. I should be able to attach everything to the floor of the spare tire well far more easily.
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JohnW;215405 wrote:
Hooked everything up to test tonight....HOLY SHIT.
It sounded like a jackhammer beating on all the panels and anything slightly loose in the hatch area.
Fucking violent.
Looks like I have to start securing shit back there with gusto if I want to hear anything but wild vibrating fury.
Im just saying, it hits really hard.
I have some 2 part expanding foam around here if you want to try form fitting that enclosure in.
But you are right, those SE series subs from RE are fucking amazing for output and clarity....I can't wait til one of my sponsored cars makes it's debut w/ 3 SE10's in it.
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tjamz;215605 wrote:
I have some 2 part expanding foam around here if you want to try form fitting that enclosure in.But you are right, those SE series subs from RE are fucking amazing for output and clarity....I can't wait til one of my sponsored cars makes it's debut w/ 3 SE10's in it.
nobody wanted to spend the money on the 3 xxx's??
off topic but have you had a chance to hear how the MT series are?
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RidinRails;215616 wrote:
nobody wanted to spend the money on the 3 xxx's??off topic but have you had a chance to hear how the MT series are?
Loud....but are power hogs. Not very musical.
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RidinRails;215616 wrote:
nobody wanted to spend the money on the 3 xxx's??off topic but have you had a chance to hear how the MT series are?
3 xxx's? Good god. Those subs take at least 2000w each. 6kw is nothing that your stock electrical system should even be attempted with. I'm pretty sure thats 700-800 amps current draw, more as the voltage goes down. You'd need at least 2 huge alternators, a mess of batteries, substantial cables, upgraded mains, etc. You could run 1 hifonics sampson which should give around 6000w @ 1.34 ohm with some headroom to spare. At that point I don't think you are talking about a budget anymore tho. Playing with 6000w, there are alot of subs that will move alot more air than the XXX, which, lets face it, is the likely goal of such a system. You honestly arent going to run 6000w in a daily driven car so the SQL design of the XXX is moot.
1 XXX, 2000w ok sure, still gonna need to beef up that electrical system tho.
Hell, im running a 150 amp alternator and 2 gauge (it's a short run) for just this 700 w. The point being my lights don't dim and I am already set up to run 1250w into 2 subs if I want to.
Oh, and I threw together a .75ft^3 box tonight. Gonna let it dry and try it out tomorrow. My prediction is very tight midbass with great low end extension still. Im not looking for -3 at 35hz or anything but I don't listen to rap anyway
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