rolled subaru
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bubba;236133 wrote:
That sounds like a downgrade on your part...yea but his eclipse would prolly be easier to sell considering not many ppl wanna buy a race car. lol
And the car sounded fine when it was started, and aside from a little smoke comin out of the exhaust all looked normal. I don't know subies, but it sounded healthy. What could internally be wrong just by rolling it?
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zbrown;236243 wrote:
couple summers ago I rolled a scraper on a 4:1 laying topsoilby the time i got to the rear engine and shut it off it had only ran for probably 10-15 secs. on its side
ran fine for about a week after that... then you know how the rest of the story goes
I talked to my friend who is a mechanic, and he said that most cars turn off automatically after being overturned. There is some kind of switch in them that cuts the fuel or something. I know Fords have an inertia switch that kills the fuel with any sort of impact, and according to him most cars have similar kill systems.
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KA-T_240;236280 wrote:
I would go talk to Elroy at Subaru over your friend. He is the one that gets paid the big $$$$ to work on subarus everyday. Probably is the one who put that motor in the car.Good call for sure. If anyone would know he would. I'll definitely pay him a visit.
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STi Scott;236326 wrote:
Good call for sure. If anyone would know he would. I'll definitely pay him a visit.KA-T_240;236280 wrote:
I would go talk to Elroy at Subaru over your friend. He is the one that gets paid the big $$$$ to work on subarus everyday. Probably is the one who put that motor in the car.elroy is definitely a good mechanic he has done a lot of work on my red svx and has a really good reputation around town for knowing his shit
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Talked to Elroy at Subaru today, and he said that all subaru's will automatically kill the fuel when they are overturned so the car would not have been running upside down. He said the only problem that could have occurred is oil getting into the cylinders and hydrolocking when the engine trys to start which could of course bend the connecting rods. However, since the car started no problem that obviously didn't happen. Therefore, coming from the expert, nothing is wrong with the engine.
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Well after doing some research I have decided the way to get the best results out of the swap is to actually go through the work of swapping the entire STi wiring harness and ecu. Without doing this the AVCS will not work, and this will cause worse gas mileage, rougher idle, more turbo lag, and a little less power overall. So AVCS is definitely a benefit, and you can only make it work if you swap the ecu or buy a standalone unit. Since I have the entire donor car, and all the electronics are in perfect working order it seems like that is the best way to go.
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Do it and let us know
here a psht, there psht, everywhere a psht psht
PVC SQUAD MEMBER #2- 95 CIVIC EX- DD 320whp on a mustang dyno
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STi Scott;237933 wrote:
Well after doing some research I have decided the way to get the best results out of the swap is to actually go through the work of swapping the entire STi wiring harness and ecu.I guess I am confused....What other option were you considering?!?! You have a complete car, with complete harnesses, and complete hardware....
STi Scott;237933 wrote:
Therefore, coming from the expert, nothing is wrong with the engine.It is impossible to say there is nothing wrong with a motor that was in a car that rolled. Internally, it seems everything is ok (which was assumed after hearing it was driven after the accident), but don't forget the force that is applied to a car when it is rolled.... There can be physical damage to the transmission housing/block/heads that aren't causing driveability issues RIGHT NOW, but that doesn't mean there is 'nothing wrong with the engine'. Be smart, and look over everything VERY well and disassemble whatever you are comfortable with to make sure you aren't creating further headaches for yourself down the road.
My $.02
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Sti atv
here a psht, there psht, everywhere a psht psht
PVC SQUAD MEMBER #2- 95 CIVIC EX- DD 320whp on a mustang dyno
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According to the forums I have been reading I have 2 other options... 1. Use the WRX ecu which requires a tune obviously and some other things but the AVCS won't work then or 2. buy a standaloneunit which I don't really want to do either.
I agree though, I do plan to look over the engine/tranny/etc. to see if anything is wrong. I worded that wrong though earlier. Basically what I was trying to say was that Elroy was very confident that nothing was wrong. Hopefully he is right lol
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if you have the sti ecu why would you use a wrx ecu?
utec ftw
here a psht, there psht, everywhere a psht psht
PVC SQUAD MEMBER #2- 95 CIVIC EX- DD 320whp on a mustang dyno
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SPANISH-RICE;238121 wrote:
if you have the sti ecu why would you use a wrx ecu?utec ftw
Well the whole point behind using the wrx ecu is so that you don't have to swap in the entire sti wiring harness. If you swap the sti ecu you also have to swap the wiring harness.
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Man up, swap it
here a psht, there psht, everywhere a psht psht
PVC SQUAD MEMBER #2- 95 CIVIC EX- DD 320whp on a mustang dyno
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