Project FD: Took way too long
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svxAL;292739 wrote:
did u have the bumpers off when u painted it ? how bout trim pieces? jw btwnope everthing stayed on the car... not bad for doing in in my garage and for my copressor to have sand in its vagina....
1999 civic ex - 472whp 19psi e85
2000 civic SiR - jdm sickness
1988 chevy s10 blazer - lowrider
1979 lifted fullsize chevy - mud truck -
That is a very nice looking car, glad to see you got the roof straight
And i ran straight meth for a looooong time too, actually over 100 gal of it over a couple years, works great. BUT, i had a block with 2 broken pistons from when the pump quit one day. Go straight E85 and you would be far, far, far ahead man
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Grr;292833 wrote:
That is a very nice looking car, glad to see you got the roof straightAnd i ran straight meth for a looooong time too, actually over 100 gal of it over a couple years, works great. BUT, i had a block with 2 broken pistons from when the pump quit one day. Go straight E85 and you would be far, far, far ahead man
that roof took me a solid 10 hours to get the dents out, bondo, and sand. Unless it is very minor, I will never do body work ever again, i hate it with a passion.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
12.645@118mph 12.6psi
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fdfreak;292837 wrote:
that roof took me a solid 10 hours to get the dents out, bondo, and sand. Unless it is very minor, I will never do body work ever again, i hate it with a passion.Sounds fun, and the car really looks solid man.
Btw, Who did your rebuild, and what turbo are you running now?
3mm Apex seals? -
Well after trying to rebuild it myself and losing compression everytime i sent it to a WI to a guy by the name of Howard Coleman. He put a pretty agressive port on top of the one I already had. And no, I am running 2mm. And I am running an ATP To4z turbo. thanks for the compliment.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
12.645@118mph 12.6psi
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Grr;292833 wrote:
That is a very nice looking car, glad to see you got the roof straightAnd i ran straight meth for a looooong time too, actually over 100 gal of it over a couple years, works great. BUT, i had a block with 2 broken pistons from when the pump quit one day. Go straight E85 and you would be far, far, far ahead man
Pressure switch could have been used to detect loss of pressure and shut down fuel/ignition to keep that from happining. I think the chance of those pumps failing are the same as a fuel pump failing. it happens. but not enough for me to be affraid to use it.
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DrifterExtreme;292958 wrote:
Pressure switch could have been used to detect loss of pressure and shut down fuel/ignition to keep that from happining. I think the chance of those pumps failing are the same as a fuel pump failing. it happens. but not enough for me to be affraid to use it.That's a good way to run it. I'd prefer to have a standalone that can control the Meth as well, but they're aren't a ton of them out there, and they get pretty spendy.
I think the Haltech unit for the RX-7 is capable of h20/metch injection handling.
The Hydra is, but I don't think its offered for the rotaries, and its an $800 option... YIKES
In other news.. I really want to learn how to rebuild these things...
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Chance91;292980 wrote:
At least its "easier" to rebuild than a piston motor. Less moving parts to deal with.. anyway.LOL says the guy that has never had one apart..... Mr rotary man, you were talking about 3mm apex seals.... why or for what reason did they come about??
I like rotaries, i just got tired of the nervous feeling I got in my stomach every time in boost
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zbrown;292987 wrote:
LOL says the guy that has never had one apart..... Mr rotary man, you were talking about 3mm apex seals.... why or for what reason did they come about??I like rotaries, i just got tired of the nervous feeling I got in my stomach every time in boost
Fair point... although, I have had a few apart, just never put one back together. We had a pair in the shop when I was in CT.
The 3mm apex seals from the earlier motors can be used in the 13b from what I recall, you machine out the 2mm grove to accept the larger ones. I believe the idea is more sealing surface area and they are a tiny bit stronger. I had been told this by some of the guys on the rotary forums, so it could be way off base.
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Chance91;293014 wrote:
The 3mm apex seals from the earlier motors can be used in the 13b from what I recall, you machine out the 2mm grove to accept the larger ones. I believe the idea is more sealing surface area and they are a tiny bit stronger. I had been told this by some of the guys on the rotary forums, so it could be way off base.I just have to give you a hard time because it is a pet peeve of mine when people talk about 3mm seals like they are something special (I thought that is what you were getting at with the question)
They came to be popular because it allows you to machine and utilize otherwise unusable rotors that have damaged/pinched seal grooves (which is common)
They wear your rotor housings ($$$) like no other, aswell as chatter much easier. Plus there are only a few shops that have the equipment and know how to properly machine the rotor....... most even from some big names will not have the groove centered correctly.
And about calling them stronger..... any detonation that is going to break a 2mm seal is going to puke a 3mm seal just the same
K i ranted a bit
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zbrown;293016 wrote:
K i ranted a bitAlways good to get the facts straight.
I think Racing beat does that sort of work, I know they offer a balancing service for something like 800/set...
I suppose you've got a point, if you detonate hard enough to blow your seals, doesn't matter how thick they are.Probably a good idea to get someone who knows what they're doing when tuning to do that, and I suppose running meth on top of your tune would be good back-up, without depending on it in the tune.
Just sort of 'in theory' not directed at the project in this thread... I should stop the derailment about now I think.
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