D15B7 Bogs Down Under Acceleration

[PSiedTSi]

darkelvis;315782 wrote:
yea...just throw parts at it until you have wasted a decent chunk of change

Excuse me, I prefer to call it "troubleshooting"

[Goodnbuzzd]

PSiedTSi;315789 wrote:
Excuse me, I prefer to call it "troubleshooting"

Troubleshooting you say? The cars giving trouble lets take it to the range, I'll get my gun! We can do some real troubleshooting!:icon_cheers:

[Slowica]

ichibankilla;315783 wrote:
I'm pretty sure I fixed the problem. I had a vacuum leak on the EVAP Purge Valve/Solenoid. One of the nipples that the vacuum line goes on was broken
Apparently it had been broken before, previous owner, and was fixed with black rtv. I took it out, cleaned off the rtv and glued the nipple back on with some super glue and then reinforced it with a some hot glue, she's pretty solid now.
I've driven it twice since I fixed it and the symptoms haven't returned so I hope that was it.
On a side note, my SRS light stays on now and my dome light doesn't work. Hopefully it's just a fuse.

There are hondas that don't have the SRS light on???? when did that start happening?

[ichibankilla]

Slowica;315798 wrote:
There are hondas that don't have the SRS light on???? when did that start happening?

Right after I jumpered the diagnostic port to see if it was throwing any CEL codes.

[ichibankilla]

BUMP!
Things I've done so far, but the problem still persists.
New Fuel Filter
New Dizzy Cap
New Rotor
New Plug Wires
New Plugs (NGK's)
New Main Relay (Thanks Mom :D)
Checked and cleaned the PCV Valve (Cleaned off some black gunk and made sure the ball/whatever inside is moving freely)

It still bogs down and almost sounds as if it's hitting a rev limiter(the popping), the CEL also comes on from time to time when I take my foot off the gas.
I've been searching around the net and found a couple other possibilities, the fuel pump (as mentioned from the beginning), Ignition Control relay and TPS.
I'm going to get into the back of the car here in the next day or two and have a peek at the fuel pump connectors, just to make sure it isn't something simple, I know I should have done this earlier but oh well I guess:).
In the mean time, what do you think would be the most logical item to replace, of the three mentioned? They are all roughly the same price taking into consideration that I would buy just the pump and not the whole assembly.
I'm thinking the fuel pump, so, anybody got a lightly used fuel pump for an EG laying around?

Thanks again.

[torbs]

What code is it throwing? Search H-T, or your favorite Honda site for a how-to on OBD1. All you need is a paperclip.

[integra_gsr98]

Does the car have a catalytic converter? I've seen plugged cats cause similar problems.

[ichibankilla]

I checked to see if it was throwing any codes and it's still throwing that damn EVAP code, 94 if I remember right. I found a vacuum leak going to the EVAP canister but I fixed it and at the time it seemed to fix the problem.
I also forgot to add that I checked the cat because I got that rotten egg smell on a test drive and I ended up gutting it. I guess that wasn't it.

[Sheeran]

FYI a gutted cat actually looses power vs both a cat or a test pipe just to let you know.

[DrifterExtreme]

Sheeran;317587 wrote:
FYI a gutted cat actually looses power vs both a cat or a test pipe just to let you know.

Hrm.... Good to know. Now i'm 100% sure never to take car advice from you.

[Sheeran]

read <u>HERE</u>. I consider it a fairly accurate test because how can you screw it up? The only thing that is out of control is the ambient temp and other weather situations that can cause a change in HP, and the gains/losses were so minimum that it very well could have been the whether and not the actuall parts changing the power thus negating everything. So why go through the trouble if its going to do so little? Just throw in a Hi Flow and get a bigger cat back if you want HP from your exhaust.

[ichibankilla]

Sheeran;317592 wrote:
So why go through the trouble if its going to do so little? Just throw in a Hi Flow and get a bigger cat back if you want HP from your exhaust.

I didn't do it for any gain, I did it because my car is running like shit and I got a rotten egg smell when I test drove it, which is usually a tell tale sign of a fubared catalytic converter and on top of that I didn't have an extra c-note to drop on a new cat.
I had to take it off anyways to check it so I figured I'd just gut the SOB while I had it out, took all of about 20-30 minutes to get all the ceramic honeycomb out, so no big loss or waste of time to me.
In the end it wasn't the problem, no big whoop, it was free to do at least. I'll just keep knocking things off the list of probable causes.
If I wanted power I'd swap out the 1.5 and auto for something better, both of which I can't afford, so I'm working with what I've got for now.

[Sheeran]

ichibankilla;317607 wrote:
I'm working with what I've got for now.

I know how that is...its gay not having money to do anything, but its even worse when parts are no where to be found for anything so everything is custom made like with my car. Hondas have everything the only limit is the wallet. Good Luck with the issues. did you try seafoam? I would recomend the seafoam spray vs the liquid in the can it did the most for me.

[ichibankilla]

I've ran seafoam through a couple times. I should be getting some money from a small job I helped with so I'll probably hit up the o'reilley's and have them order a fuel pump for me.

[SPANISH-RICE]

STOP WASTING MONEY!

jesus, diagnose something and stop throwing parts at it. you have no reason to other than some internet yuppie who has proven himself incapable of working on cars' random thoughts. trouble shoot something for once. have you checked you fuel pumps pressure at idle and at load? check that your regulator is working when applying your own vac source it it? is the diaphram in the regulator leaking? without checking these things there is nothign that should lead you to believe you fuel pump is going out. honda fuel pumps dont get weak over time, IF they go out they stop working. which is rare. you checked a main relay for what reason?? THE CAR STARTS. theres obviously power going to the fuel pump.

of all the random parts for your dizzy that you replaced did you test any of them as bad? while you had the cap off did you bother to ohm out your coil? PLEASE, stop throwing parts at this

[ichibankilla]

Unfortunately I don't have all the equipment to test these things, some of which isn't exactly cheap, and I know,a fuel pump isn't either.
I replaced the cap and rotor because they were the originals that came with the car, which has roughly 160K on it. I checked the contacts on the cap and they were wore pretty badly so I replaced it and the rotor, both of which weren't that expensive.
I replaced the main relay, which my mom was kind enough to get for me, because when I turned on the ignition it sounded like the pump wasn't kicking in every time.
I guess I'll read up a little bit more on the things you mentioned and see what comes of it.
Perhaps I'm just getting too frustrated with this problem and I'm not thinking like I should.

[inspector01]

Because spending money on parts you don't need is a better investment than some cheap tools??

Im pretty sure most members on here that have hondas have fuel pumps laying around that they would give away or sell for less then $10, if you were going to replace that, although since it isn't your problem, that doesn't really help. Get a $10 multimeter and start checking your sensors, otherwise I would guess dizzy or FPR. I would even consider hooking up an ecu to it and datalogging what the motors doing if you want sometime.

BTW The problem is really that it just wants Mo' Boost