thrown timing belt on DSM
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97Cav wrote:
that's funny troy, don't you have enough problems with your 2g? why would you want to deal with a 1g?owning a 2g = problems....
owning a 1g = problems....
owning any mitsu with high miles = problemsGreat motors, horrible to work on.
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i suppose neither one of us specified where the used engine would be coming from...
if the head is the only thing damaged, just send it off to buscur, ffwd connection, turbotrix, fasterthanyou, etc and get something better back
keep in mind, this is IF the head is the only thing damaged. i would take it to someplace that knows the engine before i even think about keeping it (for reasons that ryan mentioned) -
i wasnt mine but they fixed it it seems to be fine/
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slowvo wrote:
Owning anything making any power = problems
your stock honda = reliable.horrible to work on? haha....what do YOU work on?
what do "I" work on?? anything and everything. I'm not some punk who thinks he knows everything, I'm actually a trained and certified technician. Hell, I put motors in 2 different talons this past month because of timing belt failure.
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eatinup_pony_racer wrote:
i wasnt mine but they fixed it it seems to be fine/give it time....unless they're lucky?
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PSiedTSi wrote:
wait so it just bends 1 of each in 2 cylinders?explaination....16 valve engine, 4 per cylinder, 2 intake and 2 exhaust per combustion chamber....
say cylinder 1 was on the intake stroke, so the 2 intake valves would bend, while the cylinder 4 was on the exhaust stroke, it would bend the 2 exhaust valves, but if it caught it among the floating part while all 4 were open on the intake stroke....called valve overlap....there is a chance it would bend all 4 of those, but very rarely. on a dsm, 1 and 4 are at tdc, while 2 and 3 are at tdc.
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thats cool, we all get tired once in awhile
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still waiting :rolleyes: ......unless you are asking
? if you are or someone wants to know, it is top dead center which is the very top the piston reaches in the cylinder 
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i was doing some research on cams a while back, so i know already, just wondering how long it would be until someone asked "what's tdc??"
treimche wrote:
I was just curious as to why you replaced the WHOLE motor in those 2 talons since they had timing belt failures? Were the bearings shot or have holes in the pistons or something?
ditto. depending on several factors of when the belt failed, i would expect that a piston or two might have been ruined, not to mention at least one other issue -
here we go
ticklemedaly wrote:
Most of the time on a dsm the teeth get ripped because something is causing way too much drag on the belt. Most cases it is the oil pump. They are notorious for having low oil pressure when the mileage gets high, mostly caused by owners not changing the oil every 2k miles like they are suppose to and becoming a hell of a drag on the system due to worn parts.I guess i cant say ive ever seen an oil pump lock up on a DSM, but then again, i dont touch them anymore...
im guessing a coolant pump would be a bit more likely.Trained and certified? fuck, even I am trained and certified. It just dont mean shit.
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slowvo wrote:
here we goI guess i cant say ive ever seen an oil pump lock up on a DSM, but then again, i dont touch them anymore...
im guessing a coolant pump would be a bit more likely.Trained and certified? fuck, even I am trained and certified. It just dont mean shit.
I havn't seen them lock up, but I have seen them have so much drag on them that they dont lubricate the whole engine....this speaking from experience with a 91 tsi I used to own. caused the belt to have teath ripped off and bent 4 valves....
As of the engines being replaced....it has gotten so cheap to get a used engine and install it, compared to disassembling it and fixing the damage done to it, and not having a decent enough warrenty to cover a long period of time.
And trained and certified?....Just backing my ass up so others dont think that I dont know shit, you have to have some credentials. Yes, a good backround of having many years of experience is good too, sometimes even better. But most businesses and customers want a mech/tech that has credentials too. Plus they pay better.
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What does drag on a belt have to do with lubricating the whole engine?
in theory, if a oil pump is getting bad, there is more play in the gears, which would make less of a drag.
It would have to be one hell of a drag to load the belt enough to shear the teeth off of it.Has anyone ever seen a oil pump coked up so much that it wont spin? or there is a big drag?? I personally have seen many oil pan's and pickup's clogged with gunk that you have no/low oil pressure, but never had a problem with the pump itsself.
Now from a shop standpoint, i can see why one would want to replace the entire engine. its easier to do, less to screw up, warranty, ect.....but done right, its not too hard, and pretty common to just do a head.
As far as a pay standpoint, pretty much all dealers have standard pay rates. it doesnt matter what your credentials are, age, skill, ect. It comes down to how efficent you are at diagnosing and fixing cars. I know guys that never went to school, have no credential's, and get paid the same (or more) as the senior tech that is ASE master/L1, master certified in their line, Ect.
customers dont care about individual's, just hang a ASE sign up, and they will be happy.
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ever seen an alternator with bad bearings? can you say goodbye belt? i have had 2 alternators die in my saturn (can't handle excessive high rpm driving apparently), and what ryan is saying about drag is true. in fact, with the first one (died about 1.5 years ago in the winter) i could see smoke and sparks coming from under the engine when i looked to see what the smoke coming through the vents was coming from. needless to say, i stopped driving it that night and took it in the next morning.
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Yeah I think that replacing the complete engine is unnecessary also. 9 times out of 10 when a DSM timing belt fails or breaks, it bends a few valves or all the valves, so you have the head rebuilt with new valves, put it all back together properly and you're good to go. No sense in replacing a complete motor when the bottom ends in these things are very very strong. I could see replacing the motor maybe IF the oil pump was locking up like that. That means that there's something getting into the oil pump and chewing up the oil pump gears, or the case, or both. But that would mean that there's metal coming from somewhere else in the motor, so then it could actually be justified to replace the whole motor. Now about the whole used motor part of this, I don't think it's nearly as wise to get another used motor instead of having one rebuilt. I would much rather see someone rebuild the motor that they have, that way you KNOW that everything in there is good, and not all beat up by whoever the jackass is that had the motor before you. And honestly, if you price it out, getting a motor rebuilt really isn't all that expensive, and could possibly even be done for the same price as a used motor. Plus that way you have all new gaskets, timing belt, oil pump, water pump, etc..... That's my $0.02 anyways.
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