Strip you car
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tjamz wrote:
You could have accomplished the same thing by getting some decent car wash detergent and washed your car thoroughly, followed it up with claybar (or use a buffer as kirk suggested) and then applied the wax of your choice. Ideally you would have clay barred it, washed it again, polished it, wiped off glaze, waxed it, wiped off glaze, waxed it again, wiped off glaze again and had a very very very smooth surface that would have a lot of protection .And there goes an entire weekend!
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nah....4 hours or so only
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Some wax companies say it's "ok" to use heavy detergants (like dawn) once, or once a year.
It still is not the best idea when there are cleaners out there DESIGNED for stripping your car without harming the paint (not just buffing)
Also, tjamz, there is no need to wax AGAIN after the initial wax. The KEY to wax is to use as LITTLE as possible and let all the prep work of your paint show through. You want the THINNEST layer of wax you can get. More wax will only clutter it, ever so slightly.
You may THINK you are helping your paint, but in actuality, you are not making it look any better.
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he never said putting more wax on made it look better...
he said it made it smoother.
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duh wrote:
he never said putting more wax on made it look better...he said it made it smoother.
I never said it wouldn't be smoother, I said it's not helping the look of the car.It also is harder for wax to bond when you put too much on right away. When you whipe the excess of the first coat, the remaining wax isn't even set yet. You then apply more wax to the mix, and whipe away a lot of un-used wax, leaving you with the same amount of wax as when you started. Wait AT LEAST 24 hours then try layering it.
Layering top coats one right after another (using wax, not a polymer sealant like Klasse or Zaino) is completely unecessary, and is more destrucive than constructive.
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Hmmm....my cousin (who runs a detailing shop in the cities) swears by the double wax technique but only for paste wax. He claims liquid wax is a total and complete waste of money. (I just got off the phone with him actually)
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tjamz wrote:
Hmmm....my cousin (who runs a detailing shop in the cities) swears by the double wax technique but only for paste wax. He claims liquid wax is a total and complete waste of money. (I just got off the phone with him actually)
He is still wrong.Sorry.
(I only use paste wax).
Also, if he does away with ALL liquid waxes, I wouldn't be listening to him anyways.
There are PLENTY of high quality liquid waxes out there.
Liquid Souveran for one, isprobably better than anything he has ever used.
The only downfall to liquid is that it is more messy, and you use more.
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my words not his exact words on liquid wax. His more in the line of "liquid waxes are a waste of money....normally" I didn't press him on it and took a little artistic licensing in the expression of his statement.
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tjamz wrote:
my words not his exact words on liquid wax. His more in the line of "liquid waxes are a waste of money....normally" I didn't press him on it and took a little artistic licensing in the expression of his statement.Well they are not. So there.
TRUST me on the top coat layering.
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I/he may be wrong in the application of the second coat. I know I asked him if he waxes his cars twice normally and he said yes. I assumed he meant one after the other, but I could be wrong as he does normally keep cars overnight. You are correct in that you should wait on the second coat of wax, the 3 websites I checked all recommend 12-24 hours before the second final layer is applied. I've been doing it wrong for a number of years I guess (not that I always apply 2 coats....normally just before winter I do). Damnit, I learned something today...nice going.
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tjamz wrote:
I/he may be wrong in the application of the second coat. I know I asked him if he waxes his cars twice normally and he said yes. I assumed he meant one after the other, but I could be wrong as he does normally keep cars overnight. You are correct in that you should wait on the second coat of wax, the 3 websites I checked all recommend 12-24 hours before the second final layer is applied. I've been doing it wrong for a number of years I guess (not that I always apply 2 coats....normally just before winter I do). Damnit, I learned something today...nice going.
I'm here to help. -
94NDTA wrote:
Well they are not. So there.Why are you arguing when I agreed with you in the post you referenced? You yourself said you use paste. Then you said that there are maybe a couple good liquids. I agreed with you and corrected myself, yet you still see fit to argue with me and be a dick.
I am sorry almighty waxer of the car. You are a much better wax off-er than am I.
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I mustn't be doing too bad at waxing however, I do have a fairly large assortment of trophies in my living room...hehe
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tjamz wrote:
Why are you arguing when I agreed with you in the post you referenced? You yourself said you use paste. Then you said that there are maybe a couple good liquids. I agreed with you and corrected myself, yet you still see fit to argue with me and be a dick.I am sorry almighty waxer of the car. You are a much better wax off-er than am I.
I wasn't trying to be a dick, I was trying to joke around.
Congrats on your trophies.
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claybar=tEh shiz! When I detailed for harolds, when we would do a clay bar, we would follow it up with a Auto Magic XP sealant don't remember the code, but it was green. or we would use banana magic. Turns out an awesome smoothness and shine every single time.
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MrScary wrote:
For claybar do ya have to like get it warm or kneed it first?? Or is it all in the spray or lubericant you throw on?
You don't have to get it warm, in fact, It would work better if colder. The warmer it is, the softer it is, the less it will pick up AND hold onto.The lube just allows it to move freely without damaging the paint.
Make sure to fold your clay bar.
I havn't claybared in a couple years.
It's almost pointless if you have a good buffer.
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Today at work, we had a white work truck that musta been from the rail road casue there was alot of Rail dust on. I tryed buffing and that didnt take care of the rail dust so then I tryed Wizards clay bar and that didnt take it all off , so the next opition was to take 3000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and that worked wonders!!! after we wet sanded the truck we then heavy buffed it with diamond cut, then went over with swirl remover , washed the whole truck and waxed it..
the best thing to do after clay or buff Job is to use paint sealant then a coat of wax and once a month another coat of wax..
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94NDTA wrote:
It's almost pointless if you have a good buffer.
I disagree. There is a time to claybar, and a time to buff. Say you owned a detailing shop, and a customer comes in with a car that is nearly brand new, but was parked in a parking lot earlier that week that was near a new building going up. The construction workers didnt mask something off right on the b uilding and now there is ov erspray of paint, etc on the car? are you gonna take a buffer to that? -
aliengotpsi wrote:
Today at work, we had a white work truck that musta been from the rail road casue there was alot of Rail dust on. I tryed buffing and that didnt take care of the rail dust so then I tryed Wizards clay bar and that didnt take it all off , so the next opition was to take 3000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and that worked wonders!!! after we wet sanded the truck we then heavy buffed it with diamond cut, then went over with swirl remover , washed the whole truck and waxed it..the best thing to do after clay or buff Job is to use paint sealant then a coat of wax and once a month another coat of wax..
This is subjectional as well. For protection, on a daily driver, yes. For a car you detail often, no. If you wax it enough (once every two weeks) you will get the same protection, and a better look IMO.
I had a sealant/wax topper combo, and I prefered a glaze wax topper combo. It reflected more colors.
The sealant held up for a good year too, I just prefer the other look.
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