Ls1 RX7
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zac is hiding under a rock! actually hes been working like 14 hour days every day making $20+ an hour, so i dont blame him. But, I am not aaginst rotaries at all either, i love em in fact. But when it comes down to it they are WAY too fragile to make serious every day HP with. Like when im screwing with boost and shit, I can just lay into it until i hear some serious audiable knock, turn the boost down a little and im fine. On a rotor, ANY audible knock or detonation is some serious shit, and could be your ticket into a new motor at any time.
Also, when it comes down to it, the reason the rotor makes so much power is because its equivalent to a fuckin 6 cylinder 2- stroke. And yes it is a fuckin 2 stroke i dont care what anybody says. You mix gas, it uses ports instead of valves, and makes a complete combustion cycle in 1 revolution of the cylinder, that my friends is the definition of a 2-stroke. Also, its a 6 banger as it has 6 individual compression chambers.. Im sure every rotary fanboi is gonna try to prove otherwise, but tough shit, it is what it is.
AND, not baggin on zacs car or anything, shit i helped build the damn thing, BUT, If they are supposed to be sooooo badass, how come i can pull on him on a COMPLETELY STOCK motor with a turbo, in a car that weighs exactly 1000lbs more. now my engine in his car? holy fuck that would be fast. imagine ported heads and some bolt ons and it would do 9's on fuckin pump gas any time. I do like the $300 rebuilds he pulls out of his ass though, that would be sweet, and when we tore the motor/ trans out of it in what was it 2 hours at BI that one night, haha, that was fun.
BTW, anyone that wants a cheap swap, you can score a complete 5.3 out of a 1/2 ton silverado for about 7-800$, find a T-56 for $1500 shipped and its a damn good combo. you can buy heads, cam, headers the whole works to swap, and when you blow it, pick up a 6.0L shortblock for $500 or so and you got a 500whp motor no problem, should scale about 2700lbs withthat as well.
GaryEDIT: BTW, wankels dont get good milage because every time we go anywhere we gotta keep the thing over 2500rpm or it will fall on its face, and 80mph is just over 3000rpm as well. I can idle around town and never even touch 2000rpm, 80mph, 2590rpm, and it will be about 2300 next year. PLUS, i scored 24mpg in mine on teh highway, and i held it to the floor a number of times on that trip.
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Pre-mixing is better for the engine (rotaries). The oil-metering system on them doesn't lubricate the seals near as good as pre-mixing. I know many people that pulled the metering system out and pre-mixed 2 stroke oil in when filling up, if I remember right the oiling system uses 4 stroke oil...which is not made to lubricate when being burned. It's not much of a hassle, just put the right amount of oil in a bottle, dump it in and fill it up...maybe a minute longer to fill up.
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This argument is stupid.
Both engines are great. The main thing is to keep an equal weight distribution front to rear on a very well engineered chassis. Mazda designed a great looking and one of the best handling sports cars of its time with the FD.
Neither engine is bad.
LS1 great power, lots of torque, weighs about the same as a 13b rew.Turbo Rotary-quirky, smooth, spools turbos very well, can make good power
Now if I were to build my dream FD it would be a 3 rotor N/A. You can make approximately 400 hp. Reliable as hell. Weighs the approximately the same as a 13b rew.
400whp is more than enough for the FD on a large road course. 90% of the drivers on here could barely use the car to its full potential on a track with that sort of power and handling.
Now here is where I am going to catch some shit. The FD is NOT a drag car. Mazda never intended it to rip down the 1/4 mile. Why would they put all that time, money, and effort into the suspension and chassis? They designed it for handling. If you want a rotary drag car, buy a Starlet, backhalf it, and throw a rotary in it. That would be one hell of a scary ride.
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RE-Enema;176786 wrote:
This argument is stupid.Both engines are great. The main thing is to keep an equal weight distribution front to rear on a very well engineered chassis. Mazda designed a great looking and one of the best handling sports cars of its time with the FD.
Neither engine is bad.
LS1 great power, lots of torque, weighs about the same as a 13b rew.Turbo Rotary-quirky, smooth, spools turbos very well, can make good power
Now if I were to build my dream FD it would be a 3 rotor N/A. You can make approximately 400 hp. Reliable as hell. Weighs the approximately the same as a 13b rew.
400whp is more than enough for the FD on a large road course. 90% of the drivers on here could barely use the car to its full potential on a track with that sort of power and handling.
Now here is where I am going to catch some shit. The FD is NOT a drag car. Mazda never intended it to rip down the 1/4 mile. Why would they put all that time, money, and effort into the suspension and chassis? They designed it for handling. If you want a rotary drag car, buy a Starlet, backhalf it, and throw a rotary in it. That would be one hell of a scary ride.
Would you rather have a car with instant TQ/Power, or a high reving NA rotory for a track car (not drag)?
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94NDTA;176725 wrote:
http://www.carsdirect.com/1993/mazda/rx7
17/25....Thats worse than an LS1 (19/28), only with 65 less hp, and about 120 ftlb's less TQ.
Thats odd....
:icon_scratch:
hmm, 400hp Corvette getting at least 26 on the highway what??? :lol: I gotta hand it to chebby boys, they sure do make a good motor.
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Yes I live, and so does the car still.... now on 20psi with alk. injection and still untuned:(....... that motor has seen far more than its fair share of abuse and it is still running, and i only popped one other motor that i built.... due to my idiocy, ask any that were there, on brittle OEM seals
I dont know why everyone is getting out of hand, cant we all get along
I like a SBC just as much as any of you yet i like the rotary too, guess i am weirdJust cant beat the incredible simplicity of the rotary setup and the ease of working on them...1.5hr rebuilds at 300 dollars comon
... we'll see (if i ever get back there) for the rotary haters:)...lets say this car is not the same base 12 second car on 10psi and 2.0 60fts....... as it is now on 20psi let alone 30 tuned.... comon the gt42 wasn't even warmed up at 10lbs:)... oh yeah alk injection FTW and 89 pump.... thanks to Parker
on 20psi the car feels like a solid 10 second car for sure
and just something i wanted to throw out there... there are multiple 1000hp 13bs...... and a boosted 20b will get you your all desired even hp/Tq #s... usually around 500/500 on around 8-10psi
there is a LS7 powered fd floating around that i saw....... that even gets me wet
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zbrown;176808 wrote:
Yes I live, and so does the car still.... now on 20psi with alk. injection and still untuned:(....... that motor has seen far more than its fair share of abuse and it is still running, and i only popped one other motor that i built.... due to my idiocy, ask any that were there, on brittle OEM sealsI dont know why everyone is getting out of hand, cant we all get along
I like a SBC just as much as any of you yet i like the rotary, guess i am weirdJust cant beat the incredible simplicity of the rotary setup and the ease of working on them...1.5hr rebuilds at 300 dollars comon
... we'll see (if i ever get back there) for the rotary haters:)...lets say this car is not the same base 12 second car on 10psi and 2.0 60fts....... as it is now on 20psi let alone 30 tuned.... comon the gt42 wasn't even warmed up at 10lbs:)
on 20psi the car feels like a solid 10 second car for sure
and just something i wanted to throw out there... there are multiple 1000hp 13bs...... and a boosted 20b will get you your all desired even hp/Tq #s... usually around 500/500 on around 8-10psi
there is is a LS7 powered fd floating around that i saw....... that even gets me wet
when you coming back?
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not soon enough.
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