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Need Help!!!

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Car Tech
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  • amichezeA Offline
    amichezeA Offline
    amicheze
    wrote on last edited by
    #3

    check all of your fuses too. thatd be the easiest solution to the lights.

    btw.. what do you drive?

    2006 Audi A3 2.0T

    "My country, right or wrong." is like saying, "My mother, drunk or sober." - G. K. Chesterton

    > Fargostreet Trolls wrote:
    > i must be stupid

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    • McAdamM Offline
      McAdamM Offline
      McAdam
      wrote on last edited by
      #4

      If its really slow to rev and you can hear your blow off valve popping open but dont feel boost, Id say you messed up the timing. DId you replace the timing belt/chain? does the car backfire? need a little more info here....

      McAdam

      Nitrous is kind of like a hot chick with STD's.... You know you wanna hit it, but you're afraid of the consequences!

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      • McAdamM Offline
        McAdamM Offline
        McAdam
        wrote on last edited by
        #5

        oh yeah, could be igniton timing too, or boost leak. hard to say, what kind of car is it?

        McAdam

        Nitrous is kind of like a hot chick with STD's.... You know you wanna hit it, but you're afraid of the consequences!

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        • 9 Offline
          9 Offline
          98chevy
          wrote on last edited by
          #6

          McAdam wrote:
          oh yeah, could be igniton timing too, or boost leak. hard to say, what kind of car is it?

          McAdam
          the car is a 90 probe gt, im the friend that is helping rebuild it, i was also the one who re-timed the engine, and when i put it back together and it was correct, so I dont think it is that, but i could be wrong... so if it is a boost leak, where would be some good places to start, and would the mass air flow have anything to do with why the car is not running right???

          "If at first you dont succeed, use a bigger hammer!"

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          • PSiedTSiP Offline
            PSiedTSiP Offline
            PSiedTSi
            wrote on last edited by
            #7

            check all the vacuum lines carefully for tight fit, also check your intercooler pipes...that part can be tricky and look good until you actually put it under a load(find a way to pressure test it)

            At first I did it for fun, then I realized I made the investment and had to do it!

            92 Talon AWD 6/4bolt [EMAIL="[email protected]"][email protected][/EMAIL]
            95 240SX SE SR20DET [EMAIL="[email protected]"][email protected][/EMAIL]
            1993.5 Supra Hardtop...Sold
            Next project? 6cyl, 6spd?

            > spanish-rice;237125 wrote:
            > at first i thought the title said beer truck drivers needed... In which case i accidently put my two weeks in at work.

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            • W Offline
              W Offline
              Wizard
              wrote on last edited by
              #8

              And the cam sprocket on that motor is a bit tricky to line up since it has technically 4 ways to install. Get a book and make sure it's right.

              Wiz

              1992 GVR4 598/1000 Nile Black
              1992 Tsi AWD
              1982 Datsun KC 4x4
              1990 Laser 2.0 AT NT
              1994 ES 2.0L NT 5-spd

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              • McAdamM Offline
                McAdamM Offline
                McAdam
                wrote on last edited by
                #9

                easy way to check for bost/vacuum leaks....

                get a can of starting fluid and spray it wherever there is a connection at idle. If you spray a hose connector (I.E. intercooler piping) and idle picks up, there is a leak.

                I know nothing of the Probe/MX6 engines in particular, but the way it sounds like it isnt running, it reeks of cam timing being off.

                McAdam

                Nitrous is kind of like a hot chick with STD's.... You know you wanna hit it, but you're afraid of the consequences!

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                • 9 Offline
                  9 Offline
                  98chevy
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #10

                  McAdam wrote:
                  easy way to check for bost/vacuum leaks....

                  get a can of starting fluid and spray it wherever there is a connection at idle. If you spray a hose connector (I.E. intercooler piping) and idle picks up, there is a leak.

                  I know nothing of the Probe/MX6 engines in particular, but the way it sounds like it isnt running, it reeks of cam timing being off.

                  McAdam
                  Well, the car is running fine, when the car is at idle, u press the gas and the response is there, so I dont think it is the timing, but I am going to check it this weekend with a timing light, u prolly know more than me, but what the the main purpose of the MAS (mass airflow sensor)??? kinda just curious, cause when we plug the MAS in, the car dies... ??? Im not a damn mechanic, im just a electrician....lol

                  "If at first you dont succeed, use a bigger hammer!"

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                  • W Offline
                    W Offline
                    Wizard
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #11

                    Try starting the car with the maf plugged in. Will it stay running. Also, try proping the flapper open and see if that helps. Easy way to check for boost leak on a 5-spd car is to unplug the maf and rev the motor. She'll load up with fuel and build some boost. The carb cleaner/starting fluid idea only really works for a vac. leak. Boost leaks often don't appear until under a load (boost).

                    Also, is the turbo even spinning? What about the exhaust? Clogged?

                    Wiz

                    1992 GVR4 598/1000 Nile Black
                    1992 Tsi AWD
                    1982 Datsun KC 4x4
                    1990 Laser 2.0 AT NT
                    1994 ES 2.0L NT 5-spd

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                    • 9 Offline
                      9 Offline
                      98chevy
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #12

                      Wizard wrote:
                      Try starting the car with the maf plugged in. Will it stay running. Also, try proping the flapper open and see if that helps. Easy way to check for boost leak on a 5-spd car is to unplug the maf and rev the motor. She'll load up with fuel and build some boost. The carb cleaner/starting fluid idea only really works for a vac. leak. Boost leaks often don't appear until under a load (boost).

                      Also, is the turbo even spinning? What about the exhaust? Clogged?

                      Wiz
                      k, well try those ideas, we r going to tear into it on sunday, so hopefully we can get it to run decent and boost, thanks all for all the help and suggestions, all is appreciated....

                      "If at first you dont succeed, use a bigger hammer!"

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                      • lord_deastofactL Offline
                        lord_deastofactL Offline
                        lord_deastofact
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #13

                        OK I hate to have to say this, but I think this problem is beyond my ability to fix and my knowledge about cars. So does anyone know where I could take the car to get it checked out, I am on a budget, so someplace that does decent work for a decent price would be what I'm looking for. I would really like to see the car running nice again, but right now I'm so pissed at it I would just sell it. any idea's on shops let me know. Thanks

                        Minute ricer!

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                        • ? This user is from outside of this forum
                          ? This user is from outside of this forum
                          Guest
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #14

                          http://www.fargostreet.com/showthread.php?t=1100

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                          • JoelJ Offline
                            JoelJ Offline
                            Joel
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #15

                            PM 92tsiPOS, he makes house calls,lol, and worked on my car before you bought it. we made mine run, so i'm sure he could help you out. Otherwise, PM fallguy.
                            If you want to just have it done, bring it to SLS, Tintmasters, or roadsounds. Personally, i bought parts from Shane and Nick, both helpful. Never had any experience but only heard the best. Also check out Advanced Autowerx. Jake knows a thing or 2...

                            no race car? becuz homeowner...

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                            • 91nbtsi9 Offline
                              91nbtsi9 Offline
                              91nbtsi
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #16

                              98chevy wrote:
                              Well, the car is running fine, when the car is at idle, u press the gas and the response is there, so I dont think it is the timing, but I am going to check it this weekend with a timing light, u prolly know more than me, but what the the main purpose of the MAS (mass airflow sensor)??? kinda just curious, cause when we plug the MAS in, the car dies... ??? Im not a damn mechanic, im just a electrician....lol

                              Um, if you don't know what the MAS does, might want to take it in! heh. It is what the ECU uses to measure the amount of air coming into the engine. It uses that value as one of the MAIN variables in calculating the amount of fuel needed, and hence the injector pulsewidth, etc. FYI don't run the car around without the MAS hooked up, as it just runs off a default sensor parameter and could possibly be very bad for your engine. By the sound of it, you have a HUGE vacuum/boost leak. First thing to check, also definately verify you have it timed correctly, both cam timing and ignition.

                              [email protected] -- DSM
                              07 Mega Cab 5.9 CTD

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                              • P Offline
                                P Offline
                                pin
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #17

                                I didn't read this entire thread, but did you try a different VAF(the air flow sensor, it's not an MAF)? Since the car dies when you plug the connector in, it's a possibility that the VAF has gone bad.

                                Barry
                                "street races are for newbies and drifting is for the pros"

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                                • JoelJ Offline
                                  JoelJ Offline
                                  Joel
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #18

                                  I have one, that technically is yours. come get it!

                                  no race car? becuz homeowner...

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