Fargostreet.com

I have a deposit from the buyer so... sale pending

Added pics...

Dropped price...

That is all.

SOLD

This is a 100% unmolested 2.5L Turbo legacy gt.

Silver exterior
5 speed manual (factory short throw shifter option included)
black leather interior
Heated seats
moonroof
foglights
wiper de-icer
6 disc in-dash CD changer
dual zone auto climate control
a bunch more stuff that you can google

approx 87000 miles

Other than my XM head unit (which I plan to keep), it's completely stock.

new tires last fall @ 84000
new timing belt and oil pump reseal @ 85000 (it did not break or leak)
WitchHunter reconditioned and flow-tested stock-size (550cc) injectors @ 86000

I spent a lot of time and money looking for this car. I sold my SUV to get it last fall... got the mechanicals all exactly how i wanted the stock platform to be before I started making it my "project". No more than a month after I got it back from the dealership, my wife proclaimed that she was knocked-up!

Now that my fun money budget no longer exists and my wife already has a 4-door car and will not drive anything else... we need another SUV :icon_puke_r:

$11900/obo

Reply or PM for questions.

ditto. weee.

I met a couple people last night that said they drove this run last year. It went to the DL area and down to the Pelican Area (I think, I wasn't 100% at the time :drunken_smilie: ). If I can get my butt out of bed in time to make the sign up I'm there.

I'm shocked to see so many 650Rs in the Fargo/Moorhead area. Are any of these 650r riders on fargostreet?

Anyone looking doing this run?

http://oldfashionedmdarun.com/default.aspx
http://www.fmdowntown.com/cal.php?id=107

The websites I can find don't have any info on the actual run. Just the time and cost. I want to know roughly where the run is going. I'm not up for taking a ride on some mindless interstate. I would rather just donate $ and sleep 'till noon like usual.

Does anyone have some inside info?

HFS is right. That bass pedal is just mean!

Sight reading??? took me forever just to get through Blackened on expert drums (RB2)

Great. now I have go get this game too.

Defi FP Gauge has been sold.

By request: pics of the LM-1 that I took yesterday - sensor still works

SPANISH-RICE;273233 wrote:
pics of the defi guages?

All I have is a pic of the FP gauge at the moment. The Boost looks just like it and is in perfect condition. I can get a pic of it this evening if you want. Just let me know.

The Maxima has been sold. Now it is time to sell the mods as well.

I have A LOT of mods for this car. I also have a lot of mods that are not car-specific.

I also have a lot of stock parts too.

The original list can be seen here:http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generation-classifieds-1995-1999/589048-fs-want-mods-s-c-nos-much-more.html
Some parts are also listed on Fargo/Moorhead Craigslist.

V2 Stillen SC kit (Compressor with 10psi (3.1”) pulley, Mounting plate, Blitz BOV, charge plumbing, Oil return adapter, oil supply Tee and supply line, aux fuel pump, Vortech FMU, K/N Pancake filter, many bolts and other adapters/plates) I am the 2nd owner. 1st owner used for approx 5K miles. I used for another approx 5K miles. It has the original idler pulley that neither myself or the previous owner had any issues with. Never melted a pulley or threw a belt. Blower is in like new condition in terms of sound and performance. The main charge pipe was cut up by the previous owner to incorporate an intercooler. I had the charge pipe TIG'd back together so it is basically in its original configuration. Sadly, this kit has been sitting dormant for most of its life. I will include the Stillen manual and the old “Maxima V2 SC install for dummies” printout. ($2200)

3.6” SC pulley, original pulley shipped with SC kit. ($25)

Complete custom-built direct-port NOS fogger system. Jetted for approx 80-100 hp. Comes with 10# NOS bottle w/ high flow adapter, fuel and nitrous solenoids, High flow SS braided nitrous line. The 6 stainless NOS fogger nozzles, distribution blocks, solenoids and SS lines are already plumbed and mounted on the 4th gen intake manifold that I will be including in the sale. You won’t have to bend a single hard line, weld/drill/tap the manifold or build brackets for the solenoids – just swap your manifold out with this one. It all fit under my stock hood without rubbing the insulation. I will include my relay and switches. Can also include my wireless steering wheel button setup if you want. ($650)

Snow Performance Stage II Boost Cooler Water/Methanol injection system. Includes jug, plumbing with quick connects, nozzle, high pressure pump and adjustable rising rate manifold pressure switch. Used it for maybe about 4 jugs worth of spraying. Never ran pump dry. Worked perfect every time. Pulled it out of the car once I found an unleaded race-gas wholesale supplier. ($150)

DMH Performance E-cutout (2.5" diameter) remote control exhaust bypass with 2-way rocker switch (only had it installed for a couple months) ($75)

5.5 Gen dual tip, variable flow muffler ($35)

Innovate LM-1 Wideband O2 Controller/gauge with sensor ($100)

Black powdercoated Aluminum bezel for SAFCII and 3 gauges ($15)

Mechanical Nitrous pressure gauge ($20)

Defi Mechanical Illuminated Boost gauge ($40)

Defi Electronic Illuminated Fuel Pressure gauge ($50) SOLD

Autometer LED narrow band O2 Gauge ($40)

4 - 17” X 7” Eagle Alloy 6 spoke rims (114.5X5 lug pattern, 40mm offset) with tires
http://forums.maxima.org/wheels-tires/589042-fs-mint-17x7-rims-225-45-17-tires.html

Used VQ30DE motor that was never installed in my car. Was purchased from a distributor that also provided me with leak-down test pass paperwork from that motor. I still have the PDF so I can send it if you are interested. I purchased it to replace the broken down motor but never got that far. (I paid $780, asking $400 - shoot an offer)

A32 MAF ($45)

6-red top injectors (use for about 30K miles) ($60)

6 purple top injectors (purchased them used and they worked perfectly. Idled dead smooth) ($120)

6 coil packs that all worked 100% ($120)

Clutch Net 6-puck sprung hub clutch with pressure plate. (4k miles) ($120)

Genuine Nissan Starter that I purchased from the stealership, great condition, 20K miles on it at most ($40)

ruthless351;244882 wrote:
Maybe they are from IOWA.........

wow, neat. I'm not going to get into apparent nationalities but they are probably from Iowa no more than they are from ND. It's also not the first time I saw this car around here.

Bookem;244890 wrote:
I'm guessing they were trying to get someone to race them. Saw this last Saturday on 45th. Kept toying with me and when I didn't bite he sped off and cut off a few cars and turned onto main taking the corner like a noob almost hit the median. Had what looked like aftermarket wheels that do not belong on a bimmer.

I was westboud on 94 just passing 45th. I noticed this bimmer on the onramp was bumper f**g the vehicle in front of it while trying to merge onto the highway from 45th. We are in the construction zone by now. Finally makes it in and immediately gets in the passing lane and starts riding my ass. I'm doing about 60 in a 55.. plenty fast and there are other cars in front of and next to me. A semi is directly to the right of me. I had no where to go to get out of it. shortly after this, the car in front of me speeds up and I get a chance to shoot for an opening in the next lane in front of the semi. I figured I could scoot up, get out of the passing lane and settle in front of the semi. Nope. The little py damn near ran me over as he proceeds to try to catch me and completely cuts the semi off behind me in the process. I'm talking 10 feet at MOST behind me. I slow down more. He decides to pass. I flip the biggest and most obvious I can. He takes off while one of his passengers returns the salute.

Now read this paragraph again and imagine I'm on a bike!

Epilogue: I tailed at a safe distance (like 4-5 seconds) as I didn't get the plates with all the commotion of trying to not get killed and all. They took the northbound Sheyenne exit. I fall in right behind them since all the cars between us stayed on 94. They drive slow and turn off and slow way down. I started to pull in behind them but decided to swerve back onto Sheyenne and move along as I was no longer in control of my rage. Being a CCW holder I made a promise to avoid these situations if at all possible.

That's about as fair of an assessment as I can give. I would imagine the prick in the bimmer was just thinking I was playing and he just wanted to race a crotch-rocket. But there is no f-ing excuse for endangering me or others in the process. I want to know who this is so they can get the message... my take on it. NEVER CROWD A BIKE!!!!

the year is early 2000's
it's been debadged on the back
Iowa plates

anyone know who's car this is?

Not that I can speak from any real experience for comparisons... but I love the bike. The super broad and flat torque curve is very predictable. It has plenty of legs for me at this point in the game. It's not as quick as most of the 4 cyl 600cc+ sportbikes but still ... it's plenty. Acceleration is pretty comp to the maxima before it popped (see link in sig).

So I had already racked up 60 miles on this new bike that I just got on Monday. Figured I would be smart to get that oil out of there and some clean stuff back in. Anyone who has broken in a motor before has seen this before... if they were paying attention. I just figured I would share some imagery for those that are interested in seeing what lots of metal flake in oil looks like

This is the backflow from the old oil filter. Some flake came out of the crankcase but nothing like the junk the filter puked up.

I didn't reduce the pic so the detail could be seen.

The video looks pretty cool too.

Hello all.

Some of you may remember me from forever ago when I was tooling and driving an old red maxima. I've effetively put that project on the backburner for a few years now due to a blown motor... I am working on it.

I just picked up a new bike. My first bike ever. Ninja 650R. I've only driven it about 6 miles (7 miles on the clock now) but I love it so far. First day of driving in traffic is freaking scary. It's nothing like navigating 3" high cones behind U Motors with a mushy 250. It's good tho... I need the excitement.

so, feel free to divulge your newbie tips to me if the mood strikes.

My only Q so far: Anyone here have good luck with a certain technique for breaking in a new motor (one that you ended up keeping for a while)? I have done some research and have already started a regiment but would like to hear from others.

If it were my ride, I'd install a wideband O2 kit and boost it. You can keep the psi low and still get a significant hp increase. Old DSM turbo, HF manifold, and proper fuel delivery components, blah blah blah.

I think either route is respectable. The swap would prolly leave you with less risk of a catastophic 'oops'.... but more risk of random electronic gremlins.

I'll take it... that is if JN isn't taking it.

...Assuming the b-string doesn't buzz between 5th and 1st frets of course

yes. If you are standing in front of the car the order from left to right should be 4-3-2-1.

checking compression at this point would be pretty important. setting the cam gear off by a couple teeth will cause you trouble. A compression test will tell you if you are off. If you find out that you are off then fix it and still don't get compression you may have bent the valves.

Also, quadruple-check your spark plug wires IF you happened to take them off the distributor during the job. I always found a way to screw that up. Firing order should be 1-3-4-2. The rotor runs clockwise and #1 pin should be located at the upper-left for SOHC motors, otherwise, it's lower left I believe.