megasquirt
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Yes, get a wideband guage, it will make it much easier to tune.
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Joel;249793 wrote:
Do you plan on building the MS ECU yourself? Or does the Miata 1.8 lt plug and play work? MAP or Ron will be tuning my car. I would like to have Ron do it, but I just don't know if he'll touch MS or not.no there is a guy on club protoge that builds megasquirt for escorts, protoges,323's and tracers. the miata one doesnt work due to their distributorless ignition. yea from what ive heard a lot of tuners wont even touch MS. i might try to tune myself. many people have bought from him and i guess he is really good with helping out on tuning.
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you mean in case you ever want to run over 40psi?
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24valvenotak;249879 wrote:
you mean in case you ever want to run over 40psi?well ya but i will never run that high psi lol. mainly because the 4 bar has barometric correction and its the same price as the 3 bar. why not lol. but good point i should have explained better. why would i need barometric correction you may ask? well simply because i can lol and again with the same price of 3 bar.
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i have an aem ems in my car and everyone i talk to with my platform doesnt use baro corrections. if you are using speed density why do you need baro corrections.. matt, dave, nate, and anyone else i dont konw about, maybe you can help with this question too?
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cant use with distributorless ignition???? hmm you can use it with just about anything, with the right parts. building it yourself is part of the fun.
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baro correction is only relevant if you'll be changing altitutdes (or if you drive into a hurricane or something) during the same "boot" of the MS ECU. Otherwise, it reads the base pressure upon bootup and that's what it goes with.
Last time I had looked, multi-sensor baro correction in MS was quite primitive.
I think I'd skip fooling with it for your first build, to be honest. I'd also stick with the normal map sensor.
A distributorless ignition isn't necessarily a problem with MS. On some builds you'd want to read the crank position via the hall sensor on the distributor, but a 60-2 wheel is a better place to read from anyway. For actually getting the spark to the right hole at the right time you've got a few options, espeically if you load the MS2-Extra software into the system.
I've got a built MS2 setup that I never got around to installing that is forsale, btw.
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Joel;249793 wrote:
Do you plan on building the MS ECU yourself? Or does the Miata 1.8 lt plug and play work? MAP or Ron will be tuning my car. I would like to have Ron do it, but I just don't know if he'll touch MS or not.Im sure ron will do it with a little convincing. I have something to show you and I promise you will never go to MAP.
I really think on your first build you will have enough to deal with to not have to worry about a barometer setup. Unless you need a new map, i would start with the stock map sensor, and then upgrade when you need to. Saves some money and the start in case you have problems, and possibly saves some headaches if you have any problems with it.
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i haven't looked @ms software in years, but 4 bar resolution sucks, plain and simple. street cars with 4 and 5 bars do not have proper idle properties and drivabilty ESPECIALLY if you have camshafts or low vacuum @ idle scenarios. Baro correction is generally not needed on street cars, but it is ALWAYS in OEM calibrations and there is reasons for that. Most of the stand alone systems are pretty gross in how they work compared to an OEM quality PMC/ software. Yes, anything you can get will work, but there is many disadvantages to stand-alones in alot of cases.
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